Day 30 – 5-9/5/11

The metal ready, solvent and topcoat turned up today so this evening I set about cleaning and prepping the fuel tank mounting straps, the washers for the front wishbone bush washers and radiator fan motors.  I took a look at the parts I had painted at the weekend.  I bought the topcoat because the first coat looked quite dull and I wanted it to be a thicker finish but after looking at the second coat I might have changed my mind about the topcoat.  As I had it I put the top coat on.  The top coat was thicker than the first two coats but still went on well.

I have had a call from MCS about the parts I had shot blasted and dry powder coated.  The shot blasters weren’t happy with the rear diff bushes and couldn’t blast without removing the bushes.  I was told initially they had removed the bushes and that I would have to press them back in.  A later call revealed they had actually cut them out and that I would have to find some new ones.  Another 50 notes! The problem is actually finding them.  They do not appear on the Polybush website, nor on Flat4online.co.uk. I did manage to find one on the powerflexshop.com web site.  But on the bright side I can pick up the sub frames and manifold tomorrow and have a busy weekend ahead.

Day 29 – 3/4/11 second coat.

I checked the brush the following morning which was a stiff as a board despite the efforts to clean it.  Mothers Day and MOTO GP today so only managed the second coat done update the blog and order the metal ready, solvent and topcoat.

Day 24 – 26/2/11 It’s all about the scrubbing

This weekend is all about cleaning and stripping the remaining parts from the engine. I have managed to strip the rear sub frame and now it needs wire brushing, cleaning and readying the parts to remove the bushes and paint.  I will also have to find some pipe to make a couple of bush extraction tools similar to those used on the You Tube demonstrations.

I cracked the fixing bolts that were holding the gearbox and engine sub frames.  Then after lifting the engine slipped the sub frames out.  One of the powered steering pipes was still connected to the engine steering pump.  I disconnected it at the pump end simply because the steering shaft end was covered in oily road grime.

Once the sub-frames were out it was a simple job to clean the grime off the steering rack and remove the pipes before taking the whole rack off the sub-frame.  Then it was out with the degreaser and brush/scrub down all the sub-frames. Engine and gearbox are fine but the rear sub-frame has alot more corrosion in comparison.  They may not be bushes but there is definitely some rubber in there but the corrosion may be hiding it.  Shot blasting is one answer but if there is rubber in the joint shot blasting is not going to be desirable. I’ll have to do some more brushing with a strong wire brush.

I cleaned up the steering rack which should be good with a lick of paint.  Speaking of painting I have also painted one side of the fan mounts but it is taking forever to dry.  Temperatures are still not high enough to paint properly.  It is really frustrating.  I can’t leave the stripped and cleaned in the garage as they will just start to rust again.  My house is starting to looks like the Dewsbury scrap yard where I picked up the car seats.

After washing the degreaser of the sub-frames and steering rack let them dry in the winter sun until the rain stopped play. I just wish it would warm up enough to paint. Guess the Six nations are calling.

Day 28 – 2/4/11 Painting at last.

I made the decision a few weeks ago to purchase some good quality chassis paint called POR 15.  It is a 3 part system consisting of de-greaser, metal preparation and paint. With the de-greaser it is advised to wear latex gloves (provided in the kit) and safety glasses.

The parts were already clean from the rust remover I had used on them a few weeks back but now some surface rust had begun to creep back.  I brushed over the degreaser (marine clean) and washed it off with the hose pipe and dried the parts off.  Then I brushed the metal ready on and kept going over the parts for about half an hour before washing it off with the hose pipe again and let the parts dry in the sun.  As the parts dried where there was shiny metal a white coating of zinc phosphate now covered the bare metal which is a good key to paint on.  Once they had dried fully I opened the paint.  Two to three coats are recommended.  The paint is water thin.  It is not like Hammerite paint. I set about applying the first coat to the parts.  The paint went on a treat and it was no trouble to keep the coat thin and maintain good coverage.  I hung each part up to dry.  Drying time is 3-5 hours. So I hope to apply the second coat tomorrow.

Now there is a down side to the paint I discovered to my cost.  Having finished the painting I wanted to clean the brush and my hands.  I had some xylene (Hammerite thinners) which I used the clean the brush and then with a rag used it to clean my hands. 45 minutes later and numerous washing and scrubbing with xylene soaked rag, nailbrush and swarfega and I’m still failing to scrub the paint off my hands. This stuff sticks better than the proverbial to a blanket and the xylene just seems to move it round my hands not on the rag.  I think gloves are definitely necessary and a different solvent.  I have also been checking on the Holden website and there is a 4^th stage to the process in order to seal the paintwork for “life”.  I have used all the metal ready supplied with the kit and will need some more to finish off the diff and other parts I haven’t got round to yet.

Day 27 – 29/3/11 Busy lunch breaks and the birds

It’s been a while but I have been making some progress.  The bushes have turned up but to my surprise the kit had fewer bushes than I was expecting. Compared to the original kit the gear box bushes and steering bushes are not in the kit.  I’m not too worried because those bushes are in good condition.

Next job is to remove the bushes from the suspension arms.  Having got permission to use the 25 tonne press in the fab shop at work I took a few pieces each day and pressed them out. I used a piece to 12mm stud bar and some nuts and a small stack of washers  to press the smaller bushes out.  I used and pipe fitting to press out the larger bushes on the trailing arms.

I took the pipe fitting home with the stud bar and with a piece of plate managed to remove the trailing arm bushes in the Rear hubs.

The front arms I knew would be a bit trickier.  They are Aluminium and the outer ring of the bush is a steel casing.  I managed to press the inner sections of the bush at work without issue.  I couldn’t find anything the right size to press the outer case so I had to apply a different technique I found online. First you make a cut in the steel case with a hacksaw without cutting into the aluminium (that’s the tricky bit).

  

Once I had cut as close to the aluminium as I dare I used a thin pointed chisel and a hammer to bend one side in toward the centre.  This removes the tension on the aluminium and the steel shell can be tapped out easily.  The smaller front bushes were the hardest to do and took twice as long.

 

In hindsight if I had made two or three similar cuts instead of just the one within say 15-20 degrees either side of the first cut.  Releasing the tension would be easier and less risk of damage to the aluminium.

Whilst I was sawing away at the bushes outside on the workmate I got this eerie feeling like I was being watched by someone.  I looked around at all the neighbours windows looking on to my garden but couldn’t see anyone and there wasn’t anyone on the other side of the fence.  It seemed eerily quiet too.  I stopped sawing again and looked around there were no sounds of birds.  There is a family of sparrows usually calling to one another or squabbling in a bush in next doors garden, but it was totally quiet.  Then I saw them. Magpies, seven of them all sat evenly in a row on my TV aerial, all completely engrossed in what I was doing.  I stood there watching them watching me. They didn’t move, or even make a sound, just watching, waiting...... There’s a film reference in there somewhere and I could feel the hairs on the back of my neck stand on end.  Hitchcock really was on to something.  They didn’t leave until the light started failing and I moved into the garage to finish off the bushes.

Kim has been in touch, even though she has been off college with back problems that have left her bed ridden.  She called a friend who works at a local garage to remove the springs from the dampers.  I popped round and picked them up.  I only need the tops to mount on the new coils. When it warms up I will be able to clean them up and paint them.  I am getting the parts together ready for a warm enough day to do a big cleanings and painting session.

I called a mate who gave me some contacts for shot blasting, dry powder coating and spraying.  I took some photos of the parts and emailed them to MCS and asked what the cost would be to restore the sub-frames and Inlet manifold.  I was quoted £160 to have the lot blasted and dry powder coated, but would not be able to have the crackle finish on the manifold. I do have some concerns about the Rear diff mounting bushes, which are very hard to get hold of if I’m forced to replace them and they are £25 each, and the dry powder coating process bakes the pieces at temperatures of 200 deg C.  The many machined faces on the inlet manifold are also a concern.  I left the fixings for the many parts in the manifold.  The parts should be back next week so hopefully I can start putting the engine back together.

Day 26 – 12/3/11 Inlet manifold and a warm day at last.

Earlier in the week I took a day off to work with Kim and we removed the inlet manifold and cleaned up the springs so that Kim can take them to college.  The flaking paint on the manifold was greasy and literally with every touch oily paint would flake off.  I would have liked to have cleaned it all off before removing it but with the fuel lines injector assembly and breather pipes all fastened to the underside of the manifold.

 

I have to admit being a bit nervous although I’m taking photos there seems to be a lot of pipes being pulled apart.  To be honest a lot of it does make sense the breather pipes and for want of a better expression balance pipes.  With the engine being turbocharged there are parts of the engine that need to be at the same pressure as the pressure on the inlet manifold when the turbo is spun up on boost.

With the whole inlet assembly unbolted and unplugged we gently lifted it off the engine.  Even though we tried we still managed to drop some flakes in the inlet ports.  I went inside and grabbed the vacuum and we managed to suck the debris out.  There was one minute piece we couldn’t get out but I improvised with a thin paint brush lightly dipped in oil.

I then stripped the injector assembly from the manifold. I had unbolted it and tried to lift the injectors out, but they didn’t want to budge.  I was concerned that there might have been some other fixings under the injector housings but unable to find anything I put some long nose pliers under the pipe and the injectors lifted out of their seats.  Then it was out with the wire bush I managed to get about 60% of the paint off with no issue.  I plan to get the manifold bead blasted and crackle coated in red, obviously.

Graham set me an email confirming that my bushes would be en route.  Unfortunately, the suppliers did not have the full kit of the bushes Graham was ordering for me so they have agreed to send me an alternative kit of higher performance.

Today is has warmed up and at last I can get some painting done.  Two jobs at the top of list are the fuel tank and Radiator assembly.  I took the tank outside it looked a little grotty.  So chisel and wire brush at the ready I took the rust and greasy paint off the top of the tank.  I gave the top of the tank a going over with degreaser and let it dry in the sun. The underside has a thick kind of bitumen-esque coating which I will wash and brush it then decide whether to put a coat of paint on it.

Next was the Fuel Filler pipe.  This pipe was the bane of my life in days 18 and 19. It took ages to remove and I was a bit concerned at its condition but once I got the wire brushes on it I came up fine.  Out of curiosity I took the new Aero Filler cap and the largest of the short rubber link pipes and with a splash of WD40 managed to squeeze it on to the end of the fuel filler pipe and connected the aero filler cap all fitted well, just a couple of jubilee clips will finish it off.

Then it was on to the Radiator and Fan mounts.  The fan mounts were already half painted so I painted the remaining side and hung them to dry. I brushed and sanded the top and bottom brackets, for the paint to get purchase, and degreased them and after they were dry painted them with a coat of paint.

Day 25 – 6/3/11 Easy tiger...

Not a lot to do other than get rid of the grot.  De-rusting and cleaning the remaining suspension parts.  The tub sat in the garage is a real tease I want to get started on building the Murtaya, but I haven’t got the parts readied, its still too cold to paint and it is really frustrating.   The bushes are on order and still haven’t managed to work out an extraction tool for them yet. The weather was cool but with little chance of rain forecast, it was out with the workmate and wire brushes.

Why do I mention the Workmate? Well Ron Hickman inventor of the Workmate died earlier this week age 78.  Hickman had a life-long love of cars, and also designed the original Lotus Elan, the Lotus Plus 2 and the Europa. (http://www.theregister.co.uk/2011/02/18/workmate_lotus/).

So it was out with the angle grinder with a stiff wire brush head.  Things were going well and in no time I was on the third piece until there was a ping and Ouch! I think I might have been a little over zealous with the angle grinder and one of the wire bristles was now embedded in my top lip like a whisker.  It was then I noticed the car cover on the donor car I was working beside was sprouting it own set of metal whiskers. I pulled out the whiskers both my own and the ones on the car cover.  I decided to tone it down a bit and switched to the drill and an abrasive disk.

I went on to the Anti roll bars.  The Front was in Good condition and with the exception of the ends.  The middle section still had the original paint on it which I’ll sand down to take the gloss off before painting.  The rear anti roll bar offside bracket as true tradition with all aspects of the offside rear quarter of this car was a sod to undo and I ended up grinding the top of the bolt off.  The bracket was already torn from when I took it off the car.  Graham has mentioned that I wouldn’t need to rear anti roll bar because of the new and improved coil over system.  I’m still going to paint the bar but I will decide later whether I make/acquire some new brackets.

Last thing to be done for the day was the rear differential nose mount. Which is not an insubstantial piece of metal I only managed half of it before the light was fading.

Day 23 – 22/2/11 not the garden variety bushes

I spoke with Graham at work today and after a bit of discussion came to the conclusion that replacing the worst of the bushes probably wasn’t the best of ideas so the workload has suddenly increased. And I may need to get hold of a press.  Kim is on holiday this week, Cyprus I think.  But I suspect once she is back at college after half term the college’s facilities will prove most useful.  There are enough tips and tricks on You tube that I should be able to remove some, if not all, the old bushes.  Graham said a full Poly bush set would cost about £360 and I found a so called full set on Ebay for £370.  I say “so called” because whilst the set looks comprehensive the rear sub-frame mounting bushes and grommets do not appear in the kit content list.  Graham said there weren’t any bushes mounting the sub-frame to the chassis.  However Polyurethane bushes have a longer life than the rubber variety, a better performance and one thing less to go wrong later.

Graham sent me an email confirming the set I found on EBay were the same he would supply, only he can supply them a little cheaper.  A friend at work reckoned he might be able to get the set cheaper so I figure I’ll give him the chance but will probably be putting another substantial amount in Grahams account early next week.

Day 22 – 22/2/11 Jacks back

My third replacement jack for the engine crane arrived today and as soon as I got home I was in the garage setting the jack in place. I crossed my fingers and started pumping.....Yup there she rises! I hooked up the engine and yup! It lifted, let’s hope it stays that way.

Now everything is in the garage for the first time in weeks I can start breaking the major components down for restoration. I was like a dog with two tails I didn’t know what to start on first.  I decided after having numerous corrosion related problems with the back end of the donor car I decided to make a start on with the rear sub-frame assembly.

First was the off side Brake splash guard.  The near side had already been ripped off by a previous owner and the remaining guard was so rotten I put my finger through it.  It wasn’t bolted to the hub assembly it was spot welded.  I ripped it off with a screwdriver.  It literally disintegrated.

 

I cracked the two nuts holding the rear of the differential to the sub frame one nut loosened and the other loosened the shaft inside the diff.  Then I went to work on the Diff nose mount cracking the nuts under on the underside and then the bolts on the side. The bottom plate came free and the whole nose mount came away. Not sure what I do about the taking off the bottom plate on the Nose mount.  The nuts are well rusted I might do better cleaning as much and painting over them.

I was then able to undo the suspension arms on both sides of the diff and with that the sub frame was free.  The rear hubs now need the arms removing.  First the trailing arms and then the arms lower arms.  I was looking at the rubber washer/grommet that were used to fix the sub-frame to the car.  The washers may brush up but the rubber grommets were perished and I’m not sure I can use them again.

I cracked the suspension arm bolts and eventually freed them from the hubs. The next problem was the handbrake cables and ABS sensor cabling.  They were attached to the trailing arms and arm mounts with corroded brackets and bolts.  I managed to get the fixings off the trailing arm but the mounting bracket will need some extra attention.

 

Looking at the suspension arm bushes I noted some were fine and would handle a bit of cleaning.  But others were showing their age.  I think basically they are all within tolerance since that the donor passed its MOT in October and there is no movement in them.  However how much life there is left in the shabbier bushes is another question.

I think I will need to have a quick word with Graham.  A brief look on t’internet told me full set of poly bushes will set me back £400 online and then there will be the trouble of removing the old bushes and fitting the new ones, some of which may require a press.

The majority of the rear sub parts separated, except for the hubs and diff, I took one of the trailing arms and cleaned it up with a wire brush head on an angle grinder and then coated it in rust remover gel to see how it comes out.

Day 21 – 20/2/11 Back to the rear

Saturday was a washout with rain, mist and cold so I went out on the town.  On the back of a cracking night out with Russ and a group from work I set about dropping the rear sub-frame assembly.  I removed the front bolts and the trailing arm fixings.  Then I removed the shock absorbers from the hubs.  I put the trolley jack under the differential and took the load and blocks under the front of the frame, then it was on to the final four fixings.

The first three bolts came out no problem the fourth one was tight but still turning with the aid of the ratchet extension.  I kept the bolt turning slowly but then there was a bang. Oh, Bugger! The nut that was welded into the frame had broken free on the bolt.  So it was spinning loose but no way to reach the nut. Been there, done that before. Out with the angle grinder and a cutting disk 2 minutes job sorted.

the free spinning bolt problem chopped down to size courtesy of the angle grinder

On the jack I slowly lowered the sub-frame to the point where the jack could go no lower.  Back under the car to remove the blocks and it was down.  I pulled the jack with the assembly on top out from under the car. Job done!  Then it occurred to me.  How was I going to get it into the garage? I could just about lift it one end of it my own without my crane.  Time to summon some muscle support.  I called Russ who said he would be round in 20 minutes as he was going out shopping.

Next it was on to the fuel tank.  I loosened one of the 2 tank straps and started on the second strap. One of the bolts was too corroded and the socket just destroyed the corners, and open spanner was no better.  I couldn’t get the angle grinder in so my only option was to drill.  Ten minutes later and the head dropped off and I felt the tank drop an inch.  I put blocks under the side of the tank and went back to the other side to release the first strap.

Russ popped his head over the fence.  He had brought his wife Claire with him who seemed a little tired still from last night.  I don’t know what time they finished but I’d left at 1am and it was still going strong.  We pick up the sub-frame and walked it round in to the garage.

I went back to the fuel tank.  I was about to drop the tank when I noticed the pipes down the side.  They were the fuel pipes that run down the inside of the car to the engine bay.  But the flexes are connected to the tank through a pipe fitting that was fixed to the tank which you can’t get to without dropping the tank.

Tech Tip: When working under the car, especially on fuel pipes, it is definitely a good idea to wear eye protection.  As annoying as it can be, wearing eye protection when flat on your back under the car with years of dirt, rust, and other detritus inches from your face is not a bad idea, primarily because you can’t move out the way quickly enough. But when dealing with pipes with dregs of fuel in definitely do so.  I ended up accidently getting fuel in my face twice and was very glad of the protection of safety glasses.

Flexes clear and I was able to release the second strap.  And the tank was free.... Unfortunately, not wanting to drop the tank literally, I was under the car at the time and found myself with the tank lowered onto my chest. I was delighted as this was the last major part of the donor car to remove.  A small milestone achieved.

Then, you know when something dawns on you? You get that sudden realisation that you made a well intentioned screw up?  Yup! I made it.  I was laid under the car with the petrol tank, probably a couple of litres of residual fuel in it by the way it swayed, sat on my chest and no way to get either myself or the tank out from under the car. Muppet!

I ended up effectively walking on my shoulder blades, laughing to myself and pushing the tank back to keep it in position and eventually with the tank resting on my shins the tank was low enough I was able to drag myself and the tank out from under the back of the car.  Job done. I think I am now up to chapter 2 on the CKC build document.

Day 20 – 18/2/11 Do cranes fly south for winter?

Because I’m thinking mine has flown the coop.  I called the place I got the crane from and explained the problem.  To their credit they agreed to send me another jack unit and this morning it duly arrived.  I got home, mounted it in the frame, and....  It wouldn’t lift the arm.  Doh! I lifted the arm by hand and it held solid indicating there was oil in the cylinder.   I couldn’t believe it, the same problem? It looks like it. I double checked the release valve, it worked and wasn’t leaking.  I sent them an email directly explaining what I had done. They responded an hour later agreeing to send another next week. I hope they test this one before they courier it.

I still had an hour of daylight left and with the weather looking distinctly poor for the weekend so I headed back out and worked on the remaining nuts and bolts holding the rear sub-frame and suspension to the car.  After the problems of shearing bolts and rounded nuts with the rear anti-roll bar I wasn’t looking forward to the remaining fixings.

However my apprehension was unfounded and with a little help from the make do ratchet extension I was able to crack the remaining nuts and bolts before night fell.

Day 19 – 12/2/11 Titanic Triple Screw of Frustration

Having recovered from yesterdays deluge of muck I set about the removing the anti-roll bar.  The hub ends of the bar were no problem but the mounting brackets and bolts are badly corroded and three of the four bolts sheered under the ratchet socket. The fourth proved highly troublesome.  The socket and spanners just kept slipping. I borrowed and cold chisel from Carl to try and knock the head off but all that did was make a bigger mess of the bracket.  I was able to swing the anti-roll bar around and with some mole grips managed to get the bolt turning.  But then i noticed a small access hole beside the bolt head.  I put my finger in it and felt the nut on the other side turning with the bolt.  Bugger! Then I notice I had torn on side of the bracket mount. Next time use the grinder that’s what it’s there for.

Back on to the plastic pipe guard and this time I gave up on the bolts and cut/tore the mounts free.  The guard, now removed revealed, a fixing that held both the filler and breather pipes in place.  It was also covered in road dirt and badly corroded.  From my previous experience with the anti-roll bar I decided to leave it till last.  I undid the Jubilee clip and removed the flexible pipe connecting the filler to the petrol tank, then went to work on the Filler point itself.

Three screws all looked clean and shiny, and I stupidly figured take them out and I would be left with the one badly connected fixing in the wheel well.  The reality was the three screws were shiny on the top but in the wheel well they were badly corroded. The first one wouldn’t budge at all the second came half out and seized so bad I couldn’t turn it either way.  The third screw turned marginally.  I went to town on the backs of the screws in the wheel well with a wire brush and some penetrator/release fluid and managed, after much coaxing and some time, to release the third screw by turning half a turn and then back a quarter, add bit more fluid and repeat.  The first and second screws still wouldn’t budge.

After a bit of thought and numerous attempts I took a hacksaw blade and in the wheel well cut the threat off on the top of the fixed nut. I tried the screw driver again and behold it moved and with a bit of coaxing and release fluid it came out.  Two down one to go.

The second screw just would not budge. Half in, half out, seized solid and in true amateur mechanic style I knackered the Philips head so nothing could get a purchase on it.  I was about to take drastic measures when Russ put his head over the fence.

I had asked Russ to pop round to give me a hand fitting cross braces on the trestles holding the tub up.  He also wanted to see what the car looked like.  We lifted the tub off the trestles and put it on the floor and marked up the ideal gap between trestles adding an extra 100mm for the existing timbers 1150mm. Then we drilled the fixing holes based on the holes I had already predrilled in the posts and fastened them up with stud bar.  They were solid.  I’m not going to say they could hold a tank but they are more than substantial enough for the job, and solid as a rock.  We put the tub back on the trestles and, after a coffee and a chat, Russ left me to it and I went back to that last ruddy screw.

The only option left was to drill.  Not a pleasant thought, but there wasn’t enough thread left to hacksaw off on the back of the nut.  So it was out with the battery drill.  I applied some pressure and the drill bit into the screw sending hot swarf all over the open fuel filler...... A sudden recollection came to mind.  That of a guy at work how was welding on or near a petrol tank which he had previously emptied and it had promptly went BOOM bending the floor pan of his car and subsequently reducing the whole car to scrap metal (Fortunately he was unharmed).  At this point I decided to fill the filler tube with something distinctly less flammable and continued drilling.  Once through the head, job done, I decided to drill out the badly corroded middle fixing which worked a treat.

Success - I removed the pipe... Carrying it to the garage I tipped it up and a load of fuel spilled out on to the floor.  So even though I had disconnected it from the tank there was still fuel inside the pipe... boy was I glad stopped put a stopper in the top when I was drilling.

Kim, who had been ill recently hence her absence, popped round to have a look at the kit and to discuss the next few jobs and what she would be able to help out with.  There were to top mounts for the shocks which I was going to need off the old units to mount the new units on.  Kim said if I brought them to college one day she would use the spring coil clamps to dismantle the coil over shock systems to retrieve the parts I needed. We also discussed numerous other jobs and the tools I would require.  Once Kim had gone I went back to the breather pipe which offered a challenge in that it was heavily rusted.  It took some manipulation the get the rubber breather pipe to the top of the fuel tank off and then some more cursing as I finally managed to free it from the car.  I’d had enough by then and I had recorded the six Nations games earlier so I called it a day. 

Day 18 – 13/2/11 Been down the pit?

Got home on Friday afternoon and went straight on to the car for an hour or so. Plan is to get the rear sub-frame out this weekend. First stop the fuel inlet pipes.  They are covered by a plastic cover in the rear wheel well.  The plastic cover is also holding back about 12 years of road muck.  The dirt has taken its toll on the metal work thinning the plastic covers fixing brackets to the thickness of paper and completely solidifying the nuts and bolts.  I dug out all the muck with a screwdriver and tried to undo the fixing bolts.  I was still working on the two fixing bolts when the garage flood light came on and I realised it was dark. The corroded thin brackets and the lightweight plastic cover made trying to get a solid grip on the bolts impossible the top one kept flexing and the lower bolt was spinning but not coming out.

The bottom of the plastic guard is hooked on to the fuel filling pipe.  Frustrated I bent the bracket and pulled the bottom of the guard away.  The guard sprang free and deposited what I can only describe as a large handful of muck into my face.  I rolled out from under the car coughing and spluttering dirt in my eyes up my nose in my mouth and ear.  I had enough for the day and packed up.  When I got in I looked at myself in the mirror I looked like Jeremy Clarkson after he’d done London to Edinburgh on the footplate of a steam loco.  A beer to swill the grit out of my mouth is the order of the day.

Day 17 – 8/2/11 D-Day

Graham will be arriving early afternoon in the mean time I popped back to my parents place to pick up one of the first tools I ever bought.  A sump spanner.  The engine has a sump plug that you can undo with a socket.  The gearbox has a sump plug you can undo with a socket.  So why do you need a sump spanner to undo the rear diff sump plug? I got back and set about lowering the front of the car back down to an acceptable level.

The crane, although it won’t lift, it will hold any load I put on it.  So I decided to use it as a safety support.  I used a block of wood and the trolley jack and the metal work I used to lift the car yesterday and raised the metalwork up on the jack to meet the car.  I took some rope and wound it through the holes where the springs used to go several times and hooked the rope on to the crane hook. When the jack took the weight of the car I took the axle stands and lowered them down to the lowest setting.  Then very cautiously I began to lower the jack until the crane took up the slack on the rope and then lowered the crane so the car sat back down on the axle stands.

Then I tidied the garage making it ready for all the toys Santa Graham is bringing me.  Garage prepared, I put the back end back up on the axle stands making it ready to drop the back end out of the car.  I heard a diesel van out on the road looked over the fence to see Graham in his van.  Not a bad six hour run.  And there was my baby tied to the back of the trailer.  We had a coffee break and then back to the work in hand.

Graham drove the van and trailer round to the garage and backed it up to the garage door.  We unstrapped the tub and carried it into the garage and put it on the trestles.  Alright so it took two attempts.  I still have to cut and drill the trestle cross members to make it stable enough to work on, but for now more I need to see the rest of the kit.

First out the van the Front end Frame, then few small boxes. One contains the AST coil over shocks and they look so much better than the ones I took off the Scooby.  They were also the first time they have been fitted to a Murtaya.   Another box contains all the nuts and bolts I will require not to mention screws, P clips and ty-raps.  One small box contains the new handbrake, an MG Rover handbrake? Then one last huge box contains the Roll bar, a bag of HEL stainless steel Kevlar effect flexible pipes for brakes and clutch, and all the fixing plates and bracketry required to assemble a rolling chassis.

I couldn’t help thinking there should have been more but then there is all the equipment I have been stripping out of the Scooby for the last month.

We chatted about various aspects of the build and I asked various questions. There were a couple of questions that escaped me like why do we need to use the interior lighting? And I have yet to see a Murtaya with standard Impreza side indicators so are they just ignored by the builders in favour of custom option?

Graham left with another six hour journey ahead of him. I now had a chance to look over the tub and other equipment.  The tub had been sanded down for the most part to take the gelcoat shine off.  Graham explained that this makes it easier for the resin to cure.  The better the curing the better the paint finish/ easier it is to paint because any "trapped" solvent in the rersin gets evaporated.  If trapped solvent is present when spraying it can affect the paint finish.


One idea Graham suggested is once I have a rolling chassis, before the engine and wiring are installed, is to have the car “baked” in a spray booth for a couple of hours and then primed.  This sounds like an idea but I would probably do it when I get the second part of the kit with the boot, doors and bonnet.  So I would need to find a sprayer first.

Day 16 – 7/2/11 Engine out or bust

Fresh start, the wind was howling everywhere fences rattled, some eventually yielding to the wind.  The clouds were dark, but at least it wasn’t raining.  I took the car cover off and lowered the back of the car down onto the rear wheels.  Then I placed the trolley jack under the gear box mount and raised it to take the load and undid the gearbox sub frame fixings all of which came off with surprising ease.  My Uncle then turned up to take a fridge and freezer I needed rid of to make space for the Murtaya parts arriving with Graham and the tub tomorrow.

Fridge and freezer gone it was time to crack the nuts on the last sub frame.  I went though in my mind what I was planning to do and in explicable I decided to take the front anti roll bar off. It just seemed like a good idea and one less thing to worry about.

Having already attached the crane on the engine just as Graham had described with a shackle I lifted the crane to take the load and unbolted the four final fixings on the sub frame with the aid of my shopping display ratchet extension. Okay that was easier than I’d thought.  I put some blocks under the sub frame and slowly lowered the engine down onto them.  I unhooked the engine and pulled the crane away. First stage a success!! Engine and car separated.

Next I took the Passenger door off and put the crane arm into the car and lowered the hook down to where the gear stick had come up through the central tunnel of the car.  I took two pieces of the shop display and wrapped a strop around them a couple of times and put it under the car passing the ends up through the hole in the centre tunnel and fastening the ends to the crane hook.  I was then able to lift the front of the car as high as I could mount the front axle stands. Then I was able to go back to the engine sat on blocks.  Somehow I need to lower the engine further and slide it out from under the car.

In the CKC build document they lowered it on to a sheet of plywood and pulled it out with a Rover. So I’m thinking how am I going to drag the engine by myself?  It’s not the dragging that concerns me.  It’s the 8 inch high ramp into the garage that concerns me

   

So I spent the next 2 hours working out different potential ways of getting the engine out from under the car and getting it up the ramp.  After numerous attempts I was almost ready to call it a day and get graham to give me a hand tomorrow. Then I twigged that it I put the crane under the car and rested gearbox on one leg and used the arm to lift the engine slightly so it was just off the floor I could move the crane, engine et al a few inches so that the front part of the engine was clear I then lowered the engine and re-slung the strops and chains and lifted again. Pulling the crane again I got another few inches. Again I lowered the engine and re-slung the chains and lifted.  This went on repeating the process until the chain and strop were outside the engine bay.  That was it. Second stage a success!!  The sun came out, blue skies, the gusting wind was a gentle breeze and all seemed right in the world.

The third stage of actually getting the whole kit and caboodle into the garage now seemed something that would require some physical muscle.  I contemplated calling a couple of friends to see if they could spare half an hour on their way home from work as it was now gone 3 in the afternoon.  But I thought lets just see if I can get the back of the crane on to the ramp.  I managed it, Okay now lets see if I can get the back of the crane up the ramp. Success! Get the first set of three sets of wheels over the garage door wash guard? Yup! By now I was getting tired out but was so close. The next couple of steps were similar, basically brute force and leverage with a piece of 3x2 timber.  But the engine and gear box were now in the garage. Job Done!

The only down downside was when I tried to lower the car back down to a reasonable height on the axle stands.  I repeated the same procedure as I had to lift the car, but the arm wouldn’t lift.  It would raise without load but as soon as the load it stopped lifting.  I think I might have stuffed the hydraulics, but on the whole a successful day.









Tech Tip: After removing the engine on my own I can recommend one thing. Don't Bother!  Phone a friend! And if you haven't got a friend just find someone who bares you no malice.  I was exhausted by the end of the day.  I'm not confident moving such a large heavy piece of hardware.  It took me the best part of six hours simply because I was being ultra cautious and I was not about to put myself or the engine at risk.  With someone there to help it wouldn't have taken much more than an hour or two to achieve the same result usually followed by a very enjoyable beer.

Day 15 – 6/2/11 A Teasing Puzzle

Today was a quiet day I was planning to drop the engine but the plans very quickly shuddered to a halt. First problem how to fix the crane to the engine and gearbox.  There are no plans, or reason, to split the engine and gear box.  Putting a strop around the gearbox wasn’t a problem but the fixing on the front of the engine was a different story.  I did try a strop that looped under the engine through the sub frame and up the front of the engine.  But I was concerned because the front of the engine is all plastic timing belt cover.

Shortly after that I realised another problem.  The engine is massively wide and the legs of the crane extend under the car and although they would be sufficient for a normal in line or V configuration.  It don’t work for a flat four!  If I lower the engine it lands on the legs and I can’t pull the crane out to lift the car up to slide the engine out.

 

I don’t want to lift the whole car and engine up too high for fear it would be unstable on the stands with all the weight even with the back wheels on the ground.

I stood there for over an hour pacing round the car trying to come up with a solution. I was playing with blocks under the car, had a sandwich and call my mates and told them to hold off on the assistance. It was like one of those car park puzzles where you move the cars back and forth till you can get your car out of the car park.  I could see there was a solution but I just couldn’t figure out how I was going to lift the car and with engine sat on the legs.

Then it hit me I didn’t need to have the crane in front of the car.  I could use the crane on the side of the car and then I could pull the crane out and lift the car from the inside of the car.  I’ll explain in the next post.  It was too late to start anything so packed up for the day.

I sent Graham a quick email to ask him about crane mounting points on the engine.  I added a few photos with the strop I had looped through the sub frame and up the front of the engine.  To my surprise he rang me a few minutes later (that’s what I call service) he was finishing off the White car which does look stunning.  Graham agreed with my concerns and told me that the alternator mounting bracket is the front crane attaching point.  Armed with this information I was ready to have another go tomorrow.

 

Day 14 – 5/2/11

Last night the wind blew gale force and I came down this morning to find the car cover had all but been ripped off the car.  I pulled it back on as best I could, but the weather was against me dropping the engine. So it was back to cleaning and painting.  I had to de-rust the fan mounts again (shouldn’t have left them in the garage) and this time it was warm enough to spray them with the Hammerite rust protector.  Then I cleaned up the front lower suspension arms using de-greaser and a wire brush

Day 13 – 4/2/11 Bigger Spanner

Finished work early to spend the last few day light hours on the car.  I need to create more torque to undo the nuts and the half inch socket set although better than my own I’m still not able to compete with 12 years of exposure to road elements and installation with air powered tool.  I am at risk of toppling the car off the axle stands heaving on the ratchet.  I looked around to find an extension tube I could fit over the ratchet.  It took a while but eventually I found a piece of shopping display rack that was heavy enough to do the job. The piece was five foot long which was too long for the job but it was enough to slowly and evenly apply the torque on the nut and the nuts started coming off without issue.  Now I was able to drop the aluminium lower suspension arms and remove the shocks and springs and tomorrow, with the help of a few friends, i should be able to lower the engine and gear box.