I took some time off to
get some progress done on the car but with the best of intentions it didn’t go
quite as according to plan. A mate took
me Karting in York – So it wasn’t all bad. I tried to get my bike tided up as
the brakes and gears and crank needed adjusting after a trip to Bridlington
last weekend. Then I noticed a damp patch on the wall and discovered the bath
was leaking and so was the toilet.
Several trips to B&Q and plumb centre later and I could finally get
on with the car.
Where to start? I decided I would try the back bumper first
as I would be prepping for the rear lights and once they are in I would be
focusing on the harnessing. I cut the
template holes out for the number plate lights.
There is no back housing on these lights and I figure I will have to
fashion some form of rear protection later as they protrude into the boot
space. I noticed from my photos the
orange demo car had back covers fitted.
I held the bumper up in
position and with a rope tied it in place roughly. A few seam areas needed the treatment with a
piece of wet and dry paper but the fit looked reasonable with a little flexing
however I could flex it into position or drill it but I couldn’t do both. Eventually figuring a second pair of hands
would be required and moved on to the lights.
Looking at the photos there were connectors on the backs of the lights I searched the packs and there were none to be found. I knew where MSC had got them from so I gave car builder solutions a call. Apparently there are connectors, or rather were, but they were no longer available. The best advice they could offer was to use female mini blade crimp connectors and silicon sealant fix the connectors in place.
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Orange demo car connectors - no longer available |
So I popped out and picked
up some mini connectors as well as the bush and conduit coupler for the
accelerator cable fixing, split pins, a blow torch and a box of assorted nyloc
nuts (because I know I’m going to be short of a few from the Kit e.g. the
grills (3xfront 1xback) need M5 nuts which were also not supplied. I was right about the bush and coupler. It worked
a treat after some gentle filing on the accelerator bracket.
One of the outstanding
jobs was the two brackets on the underside of the driver’s seat that hold the
seat adjuster cable. With the narrowing of the rails I did months ago. I needed
to bend the end of each of the brackets the other way (180degrees) to fit in
the revised locations. The metal seemed
quite thick I didn’t think I would be able to bend it with the vice and hammer,
hence the blowtorch to soften the metal enough to bend. It worked a treat and the seat slid back and
forth on the rails just as it had prior to the modifications.
Distraction completed, I
returned to the car and decided to have a go at the bonnet. And came to the
conclusion that as long as the bonnet sat in line with the wheel arches the
bonnet would be in line and the height would need to be adjusted. I kept trying but again no matter what I
tried one side was fine and the other went out.
I did some sanding back on the rear edge under the windscreen to the
partial line that was scratched into the bonnet. It was Graham’s recommendation
that I cut another 15 mm deeper into the bonnet following a front on crash on a
track with an out of control Ultima which pushed the bonnet into the windscreen
and damaged the windscreen but the bonnet was fine. So I figured I could cut to the line without
any risk of causing irreparable damage.
I manage to get it fitting better, but it would still need some more
work and more hands than I had available.
Also the rose joints supplied with the kit were of a different type to
ones used on other cars. These seem a
stronger design but fouled the brackets and there is no way the bonnet would
lift properly so I had to cut slot wider to accommodate the rose joint and made
a mental note to make spacers for either side of the rose joint to steady it.
With no progress being
made on the bonnet with out assistance I moved on to something completely
different - Air intake. A quick check
online and I found the Piper Cross Impreza Induction kit and placed an
order. From the photos online it would
be a simple swap out unit that should arrive next week.
Next! I cut 3x70mm lengths
of stud bar and with some rough measurements on the photos drilled 3x8mm holes
in the bulkhead 50mm apart between the engine bay fuse box and the pitch roll
bracket and labelled them +VE, IGN+ and GND. I don’t have the crimpers to crimp the ends on
the 10mm and 16mm cables so I moved on to another job.
Next! Stuart had pointed
out that for the IVA I had to remove the air bag from the steering wheel and
use the original steering wheel for the IVA only I had to remove the “airbag”
labelling on the centre of the steering wheel.
The air bags are actually explosive devices it is illegal to sell on and
they have to be disposed off safely. Now there are dubious methods to disposal
I won’t go into and in this case I am fortunate to know a man who can dispose
of them safely and I passed them on to him.
After removing the steering wheel air bag I removed the passenger airbag
then heated up the soldering iron and melted off the airbag embossed text on
the centre of the steering wheel. It doesn’t look great but it is only for the
IVA test.
Next! I thought about
doing some work on the doors but decided the wiring needed my attention more.
First problem is I need to position the loom in such a way that I don’t have to
extend the looms further and only have add the ground cables and any extra
features i.e. heated windscreen etc.
However the “Extra” items on the donor vehicle only added to the
harnesses complexity. The modules, like the Window auto closers, were under the
seat and dashboard and are surplus to requirements but which seem to link the
major cable harnesses together creating the biggest rats nest that after
several attempts I have failed to sort out into a semblance of order. So it was out with the snips, soldering iron
and heat shrink and 2 hours later I am able to see a bit more wood from the trees.
Then I decided to measure
up the 10 & 16mm cables so I can take them into work and use the crimper to
fasten the lugs on the ends.