tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46209065796187512292024-03-14T00:57:45.969+00:00Building my MurtayaI loved the Imprezas I've owned. But from the very first Classic Estate I wanted something with all the performance and handling but in something sleeker. It was a pipe dream there wasn't anything on the market and I was forced to put the pipe dream on hold.... Fast forward five years and I find a copy of CKC with a stunning 2 seater roadster on the cover. Enter the Murtaya...Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.comBlogger82125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-43773962140400787232013-10-15T22:12:00.002+01:002013-10-15T22:12:24.318+01:00Day 86 - Windscreen Doh!
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The plumber came round during
the week to do a bit of work under the floor to stop the pipes from freezing again
over the fast approaching winter. Unfortunately with his head and shoulders
under the floor his feet were swaying about and kicked over the windscreen
cracking it into a dozen pieces. Doh!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I managed to contact the
supplier and it turns out that the windscreen is from a Citroen AX which is not
a problem to get hold of if it wasn’t heated. But heated is a custom option and
there are none available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He suggested I
try Arden Automotive to see if they have any on stock as in the past they had
bought a couple at a time. But he never came back to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I have managed to contact the manufacturer of the custom windscreen </span></span>But it is
likely he wouldn’t have a screen in place until January/February next year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now the IVA test requires
that there be a form of heater/blower to clear the screen which leaves me with
a dilemma.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do I order the heated screen
and hope it comes in time or do fit a dedicated screen blower into the dash
board which means cutting holes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-60953578821373809642013-10-15T22:09:00.000+01:002013-10-15T22:09:13.412+01:00Day 85 - Exhausting
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">This morning I decided to
mount the headlights in the bonnet. The mounts are aluminium plates that stick
to the bonnet with PU adhesive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took
a while to clean up the headlight mounting faces and headlight recesses on the
bonnet so that the plates sat flat and the headlights didn’t foul when in
place. Then I drilled the holes in the plate through so that the headlight
mounting stud fixings sat cleanly in the mounting plate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then applied just enough of the black sticky
stuff to the plate and pressed it down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This stuff takes a couple of hours to dry and a few more hours to cure
fully.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I placed a brick on top of each
plate to ensure each plate is in full contact with the face and wiped away any
excess that was squeezed out the sides.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Leaving the bonnet alone
for the adhesive to cure I started to make up the looms for the rear
lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Stewart’s email came back
with a few photos of his knuckle and a ruler up against it. The knuckle centres
were about 177mm apart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I put a ruler on
mine and it measured about 189mm so I wasn’t far wrong when I said it was 12 mm
out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Kim came round to assist.
Originally I was going to do some earth continuity checks with her around the
cable harnessing but I hadn’t progressed as far as I’d hoped with the wiring
and there was another problem I wanted to deal with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Exhaust - I figured I would have to work
the exhaust backwards e.g. from the tail pipe to the mid section where I would
have to get some custom welding done to make the exhaust fit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">This is the situation the
two cat system I bought off EBay has a 2.5” pipe to a flange at the back end.
At the other end of the exhaust I have the custom exhaust pipe which is a 3” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2 bolt flange so I will need a coupling
adaptor piece in order to fit the two pieces together. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From what I have seen on line the pieces are
anywhere between 6 and 8 inches in length, So I will have to get a 3 inch 2
bolt flange to mate with the adaptor. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weld
the wide end of the adaptor to it and then get the 2.5 inch flange cut off and
suitably mark up and weld the other end in place however far up the pipe is
necessary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This however cannot be done
unless I know the tail pipes are exactly in place then I can see what I will
have to work with hence I decided to fit the rear bumper unit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">There is also a exhaust
hanger bracket that will support the exhaust from the diff nose bracket looking
through the photos of other builds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
had to cut the old one on the sub-frame off to get the sub-frame to fit flush
to the body so another support bracket will have to be sourced at the same
time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Ignition wire – Looking at
connecting the ignition stud in the bulkhead to the ignition cable I decided
the joints at the steering column were legacy and messy and repeatedly modified
there were supplies to the window closers (which I had now removed) and
supplies to the immobiliser.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In general
it looked a mess.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I tried removing
the old soldered joints but my soldering iron simply wasn’t generating enough
heat to liquefy the solder and allow me to pull the redundant cables free.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end I chopped the mess out and laid
another piece, the correct length, and with the addition of heat shrink
neatened the whole job up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-54010054929630441932012-09-18T11:34:00.000+01:002012-09-18T11:35:46.258+01:00Day 84 - Oh Knuckles!!<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Back onto the wiring
hoping to get the core of it fixed in place and then get on with connecting all
the bits and pieces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First of all I
slacked off the steering column off to connect it to the knuckle for the
steering rack. Then I finally started getting the main cable harness in place
and was about to look at a position to mount the internal fuse board when I
noticed some daylight whilst laid on my back in the drivers footwell. The
steering shaft was out of position. The white bush that sits in the hole in the
bulkhead is now out of its hole and looks about 12 mm out of place. I tried
putting it back in place but no matter what I did it just didn’t want to
go.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried reversing the steering
knuckle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But that didn’t work. After
half an hour manipulating the column and knuckle I was getting nowhere and from
what I can see the knuckle, which was extended by MSC some months ago, is now
too long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>My mind went back over the
past build thinking where I might have gone wrong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had 2 other friends confirm the
measurements I made for the location of the hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only other fixings were where the
steering rack bracket fixed to the cross beam under the windscreen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That had been “guesswork” on my part as
Grahams advice was “put it where it feels comfortable”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I figured that the end of the steering column
should be in the middle of the drivers foot/seat well. That way the steering
wheel would be in the middle of the seat position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also lined up reasonably with the brake
and clutch pedal fixing mounts. Even though the column looks askew compared to
the line of the car it all seemed right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My frustration was getting the better of me and I really needed a second
pair of hands to assist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I rang Kim and
arrange for her to come over and assist next week. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the mean time I looked of other solutions
like the grommet I took out of the donor car that the white bush sat in to
protect it from the metal bulk head.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
took me a while to find it but even when I did it still didn’t make a
difference of offsetting the white bush at all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My only conclusion I came to was that the steering knuckle has been
extended too much and now I would have to work out how much I would have to
reduce it by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I can get it done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>will
have to contact graham to confirm what grade of metal tube he used to extend
the knuckle because if I can’t grind the weld off I will have to find a new
knuckle and manufacture the part myself.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">After taking the rest of
the day off as my frustration was not the right attitude to attempt the wiring
I went back the next day to and went through the connectors I would need for
the front and back lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A bit of
retail therapy always good for the soul, or so they say. The headlights and the
back lights I decided I would create separate looms and connect them to the
main harnesses with superseal connectors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I could use bullet connectors and heat shrink just as well but If I ever
need to take the bonnet off they would be a nightmare to split and there would
always be that nagging doubt that they weren’t completely water tight. The
super seal connectors are water tight, IP67 if I recall correctly, and would
make bonnet removal a lot easier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They
were expensive in the catalogues but cheap enough on EBay. I also ordered some
lengths of split flex pipe for cabling protection and a new pair of horns
because the old ones were nasty and corroded (an indulgence I know).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now its back to the
wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I’d left it I had a pretty
good idea that the loom was now almost in the right position and recalled
photos of the fuse board being fixed in place with tyraps (although this might
have been temporary).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not on my
watch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found a couple of M6 bolts and
some washers I could use as spacers and figured I could side mount the
fuseboards bracket to the car.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-45413947168129202532012-09-18T11:11:00.001+01:002012-09-18T11:11:29.775+01:00Day 83 – DIY flaring
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Or will I? I came back to
it at the weekend and after a few other little jobs like provisionally mounted the
donor fuel filter after modifying the bracket so that it would sit
upright.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then spent a bit of time of
looking at the doors and working out how I am going to pour extra resin into
the door without filling the Rivnuts full of resin to strengthen the hinge
plate before trying to fit the bear claw to the door.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also stripped back the door cable harnesses
because I want to use the electric adjuster system for the wing mirrors. With
those wires aside there are a number of other wires that can now be used to
connect the window motor assembly and door release solenoid.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">That done it was back to
the main wiring loom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Getting it in the
right position is crucial.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If it is
wrong by an inch I could end up spending a lot of time extending cables
un-necessarily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also after browsing
various folders of wiring diagrams from different cars (Ibis white, Burnt
orange, Kawasaki green) I came to the conclusion that the wiring harnesses vary
so much that there wasn’t an ideal solution, basic position or standard routes
to start from and so I made my own up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Following Ben’s instruction I fitted the tyrap fixing points along the
underside of the dashboard beam and then realised the what ever I did the
Windscreen wiper assembly was likely to foul the wiring.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So I dug out the Wiper
assembly and following the measurements shown in one of the build manual photos.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I measured and cut the hole for the
wiper arm spindle, measured off the amount of metal tube required between the
spindle and the motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Looking at the
assembly instructions it says to use a pipe flaring tool to create the flared
end required to clamp in the spindle assembly, which I don’t own, or
alternatively a pair of round nose pliers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I don’t own any of those either so I looked
around for an alternative.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A friend at
work had suggested a round punch of some sort which I had so I gave it a try
but the taper was too narrow and wouldn’t flare the pipe end enough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I searched again and came up with an
alternative my spring loaded centre pop and a mallet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The punch tip was obviously way too small but
the metal body had a taper that looked like it would do the job with some
gentle persuasion of a mallet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It worked
a treat and I tested the position in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtO-0HVW_mmc9qGXQRhas8mn8NTGgMOFAg5X-gNRgx6Xs1RCXaOJc2kYyhDjk-w0DKK9n18MSwUDKITMwO9dRkV_1x6xGfHLHi9T49BDkmJ5-Me1PdQi3uhXXMCS3Q1N-o2kq3PBmlrNE/s1600/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120903-00062+%2528Small%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtO-0HVW_mmc9qGXQRhas8mn8NTGgMOFAg5X-gNRgx6Xs1RCXaOJc2kYyhDjk-w0DKK9n18MSwUDKITMwO9dRkV_1x6xGfHLHi9T49BDkmJ5-Me1PdQi3uhXXMCS3Q1N-o2kq3PBmlrNE/s320/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120903-00062+%2528Small%2529.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuKk6_jCT3bbM9wfIkQcXLhnmMFhg39_yde58fRv-WK06f5Xooc7V5bf5OaTwrKnIabu6I0CuGm6dnVi41VpoYlr_YA_Dm-aE17K6qtVVehgpCjcbX5JHZUKK7iueh4cHBjsZv8Mo5AA/s1600/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120903-00064+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuKk6_jCT3bbM9wfIkQcXLhnmMFhg39_yde58fRv-WK06f5Xooc7V5bf5OaTwrKnIabu6I0CuGm6dnVi41VpoYlr_YA_Dm-aE17K6qtVVehgpCjcbX5JHZUKK7iueh4cHBjsZv8Mo5AA/s640/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120903-00064+(Small).jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now there was something I didn’t like about the wiper motor mounting.
I’d seen it on the Orange demo car. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
wiper motor mounting bracket fastens to the car through the apron between the
bottom of the windscreen and the bulkhead. There were two stainless steel round
head allen bolts and when the bonnet is down they can’t be seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I don’t like the idea so looked to try
another solution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought about making
a bracket but a bracket didn’t look like it would work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought about mounting it vertically on the
side wall which would mean cutting the leftover pipe to suit (there is enough
left of the pipe to make a second attempt after the first cut in case you screw
it up) You can’t mount it horizontally because of the corner webbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided it was a possibility but I know the
engine management unit mounts around there so decided to leave it with the pipe
and spindle in place and went back to the wiring.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I stripped the wiper
connection off the harness and pulled the cabling back up the loom so that it
remained inside the car when the loom is in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I then looked at the wiring diagram provided
with the wiper motor kit and promptly became confused.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So, I labelled the wires and it was back to
the main wiring harness.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngi0_FLrYn5Z_pd2ApJMR50-7HqnD-WKLBKOp22WWsVD4YNTzU5RRrptkZladPBje7kYqVbnfclAZ3sP8ArHxLP0wEE-5a-M6146CComRqHRQiKYsKsPD9DGXOe2Cg9MtlpuxXIP5jDs/s1600/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120908-00065+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngi0_FLrYn5Z_pd2ApJMR50-7HqnD-WKLBKOp22WWsVD4YNTzU5RRrptkZladPBje7kYqVbnfclAZ3sP8ArHxLP0wEE-5a-M6146CComRqHRQiKYsKsPD9DGXOe2Cg9MtlpuxXIP5jDs/s320/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120908-00065+(Small).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I decided the
critical point is where the loom branches both backwards e.g. up the steering
column and clocks and forwards e.g. to the engine bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I therefore decided the most obvious starting
point was the brake light switch on the brake pedal. I found the connector and
positioned the harness accordingly. Then Fitted the steering column mounting
bracket underneath the harness and mounted the steering column. Now all I have
to do is fix it all in place and connect it all together… hmm! Think I’ll have
a beer instead and call it a night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-59348070922294520032012-09-18T10:47:00.001+01:002012-09-18T10:47:46.126+01:00Day 82 – Air in
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuX7lPWvMdz1nTCjXrzbxyUSuxU-bytOXd-pT4XBWHPpn4NJmhRb18zVcT0o9jXHS0wIC1-xogd9fjqZ37BC1BdK4xW_J0GSHCDLMLWlFzG7yiA3N682Nbsu02vSY9i8RcPRbRHEnj2is/s1600/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120918-00075+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuX7lPWvMdz1nTCjXrzbxyUSuxU-bytOXd-pT4XBWHPpn4NJmhRb18zVcT0o9jXHS0wIC1-xogd9fjqZ37BC1BdK4xW_J0GSHCDLMLWlFzG7yiA3N682Nbsu02vSY9i8RcPRbRHEnj2is/s640/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120918-00075+(Small).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Crimping done and the new air
filter turned up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I put some heat shrink
on the back ends of the lugs to make it look a neater job. Fitting all the
cables was easy although I didn’t tyrap them in just yet because until I have
the loom hung properly in place and all the fuel lines in the exact locations. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I might need to un-twist them so it all fits
neatly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The Air filter has arrived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But unfortunately it wasn’t as straight
forward a job as I first thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
pack came with one too many jubilee clips and not enough washers – not a major
problem in itself. If you followed the instructions however there was no way
the custom aluminium piece between the intake under the inlet manifold and the
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor was actually going to fit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Granted from the photos provided in the
assembly instructions my MAF was a different model to the one shown and I
didn’t have the breather pipe that was also in the kit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So the answer was to fit the cone filter to
the MAF and use the original pipe from the other side of the MAF to the
Intake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will swap the original jubilee
clips for the new ones so it looks all shiny.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I’m happy that the seals are all good and that it will work fine the
only issue now is I need to make a bracket to hold the cone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One is provided with the Kit but it was
expecting and inner wing and the original mounting points from an Impreza which
I no longer have - obviously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I will
have to work out a fixing either modifying the bracket in the kit or make a
bespoke one.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZL_kGXDi0dyidYN3LtVxfEkXy45QDLPmX5mTF3tWaFUHbjbYdz9lagGOZqsEu6KoU6qlw7QPCKKQFnfZ546znFWqFWiVb7f1uag8VXwsWIzmX_RUDD7FsWw9UOplhEXQMrYHfUXwQN0I/s1600/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120918-00074+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZL_kGXDi0dyidYN3LtVxfEkXy45QDLPmX5mTF3tWaFUHbjbYdz9lagGOZqsEu6KoU6qlw7QPCKKQFnfZ546znFWqFWiVb7f1uag8VXwsWIzmX_RUDD7FsWw9UOplhEXQMrYHfUXwQN0I/s640/City+of+Kingston-upon-Hull-20120918-00074+(Small).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now here comes a problem I
had been dreading. I’ve lost a wire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Somewhere in amongst the rats net of cables is the lead that connects to
the ignition key to the starter motor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But could I find it? Could I hell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When I was laying up all the heavy current cabling there was a niggle in
the back of my mind that I hadn’t seen it in the wiring harness (since it came
out).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So now all the heavy stuff was in
I wanted to get to a point where I could turn the engine over because it hasn’t
run for over a year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, I know I could
just get a piece of cable off the live terminal and touch the connector on the
starter motor but I want to get it right and, as the wiring loom is next, it
seemed right to do a “proper job”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each
time I was in the garage I found myself digging in to the wiring diagram
section of the Scooby service manuals and back into the harness chasing wire colours
and relays that didn’t exist. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The immobiliser
wiring wasn’t helping matters either. It took ages, to the point where I
thought I was missing a piece of harness and started searching round the garage
in the end I stripped a bit of the loom tape off the main cable loom and traced
the cable to the point where I could see which branch of the main harness it
was running down. To be fair I seemed to recall it being a white connector but
it was black and the coloured cable was sheathed in black plastic and on the
same branch as the electrics for the windscreen wiper (which will have to come
back inside the car) and the loom which goes to the other side of the engine
with the MAF sensor etc. So I will have to extend it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-42318932774401581822012-09-18T10:18:00.000+01:002012-09-18T10:18:31.411+01:00Day 81 - 101 jobs to do
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I took some time off to
get some progress done on the car but with the best of intentions it didn’t go
quite as according to plan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A mate took
me Karting in York – So it wasn’t all bad. I tried to get my bike tided up as
the brakes and gears and crank needed adjusting after a trip to Bridlington
last weekend. Then I noticed a damp patch on the wall and discovered the bath
was leaking and so was the toilet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Several trips to B&Q and plumb centre later and I could finally get
on with the car.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Where to start?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided I would try the back bumper first
as I would be prepping for the rear lights and once they are in I would be
focusing on the harnessing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cut the
template holes out for the number plate lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is no back housing on these lights and I figure I will have to
fashion some form of rear protection later as they protrude into the boot
space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I noticed from my photos the
orange demo car had back covers fitted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I held the bumper up in
position and with a rope tied it in place roughly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few seam areas needed the treatment with a
piece of wet and dry paper but the fit looked reasonable with a little flexing
however I could flex it into position or drill it but I couldn’t do both.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually figuring a second pair of hands
would be required and moved on to the lights.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXurqJZx2Tev_37VHT9R4pCM3E3n0UuDkXJXnG-cOYm4JYMWGERH9VU7VO4jv_ZxVofiDReTX_TInfBOUYCltaA1M5EMpjxWfVTK-89NG4EmO_YQw2dW1xoqnHGC8gU2Ht_Ybz70toUc/s1600/IMG-20120822-00051+(Small).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXurqJZx2Tev_37VHT9R4pCM3E3n0UuDkXJXnG-cOYm4JYMWGERH9VU7VO4jv_ZxVofiDReTX_TInfBOUYCltaA1M5EMpjxWfVTK-89NG4EmO_YQw2dW1xoqnHGC8gU2Ht_Ybz70toUc/s400/IMG-20120822-00051+(Small).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p> Looking at the photos there were connectors on the backs of the lights I searched the packs and there were none to be found.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I knew where MSC had got them from so I gave car builder solutions a call.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently there are connectors, or rather were, but they were no longer available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best advice they could offer was to use female mini blade crimp connectors and silicon sealant fix the connectors in place.</o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgANdqZxTuSr5nYot4JjdOazDrtfpoFv3hBI2HnNCCfdpM30si8DPTfhiU_JUZF51IOM1njyRT3QXaZwM6r0DlT4Qwnm_Ic9-1w5N2Ta63x7B3HGSuXZZFlyaVTd54ms377Aetny5eKZYU/s1600/P6270872+(Small).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgANdqZxTuSr5nYot4JjdOazDrtfpoFv3hBI2HnNCCfdpM30si8DPTfhiU_JUZF51IOM1njyRT3QXaZwM6r0DlT4Qwnm_Ic9-1w5N2Ta63x7B3HGSuXZZFlyaVTd54ms377Aetny5eKZYU/s640/P6270872+(Small).JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange demo car connectors - no longer available</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So I popped out and picked
up some mini connectors as well as the bush and conduit coupler for the
accelerator cable fixing, split pins, a blow torch and a box of assorted nyloc
nuts (because I know I’m going to be short of a few from the Kit e.g. the
grills (3xfront 1xback) need M5 nuts which were also not supplied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was right about the bush and coupler. It worked
a treat after some gentle filing on the accelerator bracket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">One of the outstanding
jobs was the two brackets on the underside of the driver’s seat that hold the
seat adjuster cable. With the narrowing of the rails I did months ago. I needed
to bend the end of each of the brackets the other way (180degrees) to fit in
the revised locations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The metal seemed
quite thick I didn’t think I would be able to bend it with the vice and hammer,
hence the blowtorch to soften the metal enough to bend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It worked a treat and the seat slid back and
forth on the rails just as it had prior to the modifications.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Distraction completed, I
returned to the car and decided to have a go at the bonnet. And came to the
conclusion that as long as the bonnet sat in line with the wheel arches the
bonnet would be in line and the height would need to be adjusted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I kept trying but again no matter what I
tried one side was fine and the other went out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I did some sanding back on the rear edge under the windscreen to the
partial line that was scratched into the bonnet. It was Graham’s recommendation
that I cut another 15 mm deeper into the bonnet following a front on crash on a
track with an out of control Ultima which pushed the bonnet into the windscreen
and damaged the windscreen but the bonnet was fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I figured I could cut to the line without
any risk of causing irreparable damage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I manage to get it fitting better, but it would still need some more
work and more hands than I had available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Also the rose joints supplied with the kit were of a different type to
ones used on other cars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These seem a
stronger design but fouled the brackets and there is no way the bonnet would
lift properly so I had to cut slot wider to accommodate the rose joint and made
a mental note to make spacers for either side of the rose joint to steady it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">With no progress being
made on the bonnet with out assistance I moved on to something completely
different - Air intake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A quick check
online and I found the Piper Cross Impreza Induction kit and placed an
order.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the photos online it would
be a simple swap out unit that should arrive next week.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Next! I cut 3x70mm lengths
of stud bar and with some rough measurements on the photos drilled 3x8mm holes
in the bulkhead 50mm apart between the engine bay fuse box and the pitch roll
bracket and labelled them +VE, IGN+ and GND. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t have the crimpers to crimp the ends on
the 10mm and 16mm cables so I moved on to another job.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Next! Stuart had pointed
out that for the IVA I had to remove the air bag from the steering wheel and
use the original steering wheel for the IVA only I had to remove the “airbag”
labelling on the centre of the steering wheel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The air bags are actually explosive devices it is illegal to sell on and
they have to be disposed off safely. Now there are dubious methods to disposal
I won’t go into and in this case I am fortunate to know a man who can dispose
of them safely and I passed them on to him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After removing the steering wheel air bag I removed the passenger airbag
then heated up the soldering iron and melted off the airbag embossed text on
the centre of the steering wheel. It doesn’t look great but it is only for the
IVA test. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Next! I thought about
doing some work on the doors but decided the wiring needed my attention more.
First problem is I need to position the loom in such a way that I don’t have to
extend the looms further and only have add the ground cables and any extra
features i.e. heated windscreen etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However the “Extra” items on the donor vehicle only added to the
harnesses complexity. The modules, like the Window auto closers, were under the
seat and dashboard and are surplus to requirements but which seem to link the
major cable harnesses together creating the biggest rats nest that after
several attempts I have failed to sort out into a semblance of order. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it was out with the snips, soldering iron
and heat shrink and 2 hours later I am able to see a bit more wood from the trees.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Then I decided to measure
up the 10 & 16mm cables so I can take them into work and use the crimper to
fasten the lugs on the ends.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-83754212910827610142012-09-18T09:43:00.000+01:002012-09-18T09:43:39.197+01:00Day 80 – all sorts ...no penalty<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Good news – no penalty
notice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has been a couple of weeks
since I was down in Exeter and what with a holiday, a testing coast to coast
bike ride, a christening, a couple of birthdays, work and the Olympics,
obviously, getting any real time in the garage has be a problem. But I finally
manage this weekend to get some time in -But what to start with?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to lay the fuel lines in and fasten
the “Hockey stick” so I could see where the fuel lines go in comparison with
the wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I made a final decision
on the accelerator cable. This has been a question Stuart and I had pondered
over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We know the cable will come out in
the wheel arch which is not something we really want but with no apparent
option.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I marked up and drilled a pilot hole
and mounted the inner wing to see how far it stuck out in the wheel arch. It
wasn’t as bad as I thought I might even be able to rework the inner wing to act
as a protection guard.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plan was to cut a 16mm hole and feed the cable through it then I reckoned and 25mm brass bush and 25mm conduit coupler with a couple of locking screws would secure the pedal end securely. I cut the hole but the bit caught as it broke through. Whoops! I finished the hole of with the dremel and a sanding bit.</o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I started looking at other
jobs to be done and went back to the images from MSC and my own photos to
assess to the positions for the studs in the bulkhead that I am going to use
for the Main +12v supply and Ground from the battery and IGN+.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Being a plastic car you can get away with
things like this. I was flicking through the photos when I saw something I
recognised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a hole in the inner wing
of another Murtaya with the accelerator cable running through it. Exactly like
the one I had done earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ll be
honest being a novice builder and not having a manual to go from there are
times when you start second, third and fourth guessing yourself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every hole and cable you cut you find
yourself debating whether you will need it later or is it in the right place. I
had spent hours debating what to do with the accelerator cable and that picture
showed me what to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My frustration got
the better of me and I spent the next 5 hours pouring over the photos gleaning
as much information as possible. I figure the more I am aware of what is coming
up the easier it would be to make decisions, cuts and holes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-51167710934193916742012-09-18T09:31:00.000+01:002012-09-18T09:31:58.437+01:00Day79 - Destination... Exeter
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I took a couple of days
off and drove down to the Murtaya Sportscars Workshop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I picked Stuart up on the way and met up with
Andy at the workshop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Andy was great and
couldn’t do enough to help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We searched
around the workshop and found a few items I was outstanding. Andy also
explained the current situation with MSC which was the Ben and Graham had been
forced to find other jobs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whilst they
have made massive improvements to the Adrenalin Roadster, having started a new
budget car project and built a demonstrator there was not enough business to sustain
the development work being done on the cars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This is the situation facing all kit manufacturers at the moment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So although the business wasn’t bust it was
basically being put up for sale - with a couple of interested parties
negotiations were continuing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
shame that all the work and effort these guys have put in raising the level of
quality that this kit has evolved into has come to this. I hope the new owners
can continue the development.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Stuart and I went through
the photos and details on MSC’s PC and found the folder Ben had been using to
build the manual up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took copies of all
these then went to where the Orange demo car was being housed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Andy said it just needed a Simtec ECU for the
high customised engine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However after
closer inspection some of the parts I was hoping to photograph weren’t actually
complete. One of the things I wanted a picture of was the fuel pipe route after
they come out of the “hockey stick” slot under the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Part of the problem is that I have an inline
fuel filter to replace the large donor unit for, which I can’t see any room for
and the simplest route is to bring it up and round under the fuse box.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This in itself is not a problem. However, I
am concerned that the IVA assessment might have an issue though.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a number of other minor issues
which I hope the photos from Nick, another Murtaya owner, will point me in the
right direction.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I took a number of photos
under the dashboard and in the engine bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I noted some of the pipe changes which I had already worked out and
cable routes which were different to mine but this was originally a non-ABS
donor car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked at the arrangement
of the rear lighting again confirming my own thoughts and the cutting out I had
done which I thought had been excessive. But it turns out that they had done
the same.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">We went for a drink in the
local pub and met up with Ben where I put a a number of questions to him about structural
PU, wiper blade, wiring, door glass seals, neutral issues and how to avoid
problems and a host of other queries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
went back to the workshop and went back through the data to see if he had
anything else we might have missed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So
with all the parts outstanding accounted for by either what we had found with
Andy or to be credited as required and I’ll order them from CBS online or other
supplier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The windscreen wiper had
apparently been ordered but not supplied nor the payment taken by the supplier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The suspicion was the company had gone bust
so when asked what was the alternative, Ben suggested I take the one on the
Orange Demo car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">We were just about to call
it a night when Graham popped his head round the door to say hello.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We chatted briefly about what we had been
agreed with Andy and Ben and called it a night. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Stuart and I left feeling
more positive about what we have to do and assured that the Murtaya story will
continue, if in the guise of new owners, and with support assured and a wealth
of build photos we met up with Stuart’s wife at a local restaurant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pity about the copper on the bridge over the
M5, guess I’ll have to wait for the fixed penalty notice.</span>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-87776733837963953412012-09-18T08:35:00.000+01:002012-09-18T08:35:43.344+01:00Day 78: Murtaya Stolen...
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">It wasn’t mine I’m relieved
to say. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I noticed a link was down so I
did some updating on the blog and discovered that Bart’s Murtaya was stolen in
April.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bart must be heartbroken. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was registered as No.30 so any European
track day fanatics out there be aware there are only 43 of these excellent
vehicles in the world 2 in the USA and the UK and NZ ones are all right hand
drive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That doesn’t leave many out there
and Bart’s was the only left hand drive I know of in Europe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtxdR-0ALOFeRxHN-4Tep9CtW2DBk3ghLOT45EwrgJEB6RTtEywVbxoHv_1Qpo9QhxiPWsqERGu4TkZZoSrSk4-OIm6NfmuEufS4NwDN13C_Fw0O5En1RIuBin0swBqtiBEAEgxy-bHA/s1600/Barts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="628" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtxdR-0ALOFeRxHN-4Tep9CtW2DBk3ghLOT45EwrgJEB6RTtEywVbxoHv_1Qpo9QhxiPWsqERGu4TkZZoSrSk4-OIm6NfmuEufS4NwDN13C_Fw0O5En1RIuBin0swBqtiBEAEgxy-bHA/s640/Barts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-53796878468858593602012-06-26T22:34:00.000+01:002012-06-26T22:34:28.643+01:00Day 77: Newark Show and contact at last<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">A mate of mine has been
thinking about a kit car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And with the
Newark show on the horizon I ask if he want to join me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was looking like it was going to be a
great show Ronart were going to be there, some new vehicles were being
launched/displayed for the first time and from last year’s experience there was
a pretty good club scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was all
gearing up for a great show.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">However we can’t plan the
weather which was atrocious with high winds and lashing rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hence the majority of the club cars stayed
away and those that did turned up it wasn’t a nice environment to peruse the
cars and chat to the owners.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did
manage to talk to Arthur Wolstenholme the creator and director of Ronart
Cars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a V12 W152 which looked
awesome especially for a 10 year old car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Arthur showed me an article in the June edition of Jaguar World
magazine. The W152 uses a Jaguar XJ series as its donor for engine,
transmission, suspension etc. I recall reading ages ago that Jaguar had an
issue with their name being used on the Ronart cars as it wasn’t a “proper”
Jaguar. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Could be Jaguar World think a
little different.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I decided that seeing as I
hadn’t heard from the lads I tracked down a fellow Murtaya owner who had a
completed car (IBIS White) and asked him if he could take a few pictures of his
car for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He happily agreed to help
though when he told me the car was in storage and soon heading to
Scoobyprojects I felt a little guilty for putting him out and curious about
what he was having done.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I also decided another
email to Andy was in order asking if I could come down and meet him and if he
had access to the workshop, a car, drawings etc, and most important my
outstanding Kit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To my surprise I got a
response the same day agreeing and offering access to cars and the
workshop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got in touch with Stuart and
we quickly agreed to fix a date. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fingers
crossed I will get the miriad of questions buzzing around my head answered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cars they have available, I’m guessing
slightly, are the red race car and the Avendator Orange RT2 which according to
andy was still waiting a custom ECU for that highly modified engine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<br /></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-5950086186955582752012-06-26T22:08:00.001+01:002012-06-26T22:08:50.920+01:00Day 76: Gong deep with the wiring<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">After much discussion with
myself I have decided the front engine bay wiring loom will have to be split.
The first half follows the existing route and contains the wiring for the lights,
fans and horns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second half of the
cabling links the internal fuse board to the engine bay relay box and will
route back to the location of the internal fuse box using the same hole in the
bulkhead the wiring harness used from the engine control unit (ECU) in the car
to the engine harness connectors.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The other benefit of doing
this is I can remove the huge connector that was connected to the ABS unit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know whether I will need to keep it
in the harness but by doing it this way I can bring the all the cabling inside
the car under the dash. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">It took a while to unwrap
but after an hour or so I was left with a mass of cables on the garage floor
and I’d had enough already of working on the garage floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I set up the wallpaper pasting table and the
workmate, laid cardboard sheet over the two and laid the cabling out on the
cardboard and began separating the cables into four groups common, ABS, front end
connections(lights, horns, fans etc) and internal wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thank god I labelled every connector
well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2 connectors were dedicated to
ABS.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were over half a dozen other
cables for the ABS connector one was power from the fuse board so that was quickly
cut and pulled back. There were actually 4 separate commons, 2 were on a
separate connector (I assume for fault finding) and two others wired into the
common cable. These I cut also.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Next were the lights, the
main cabling was fine from the fuse board and easily segregated but there was a
loop back into the car which I would have to chop and extend. There was a mass
of offside indicators wiring as the side indicator and main indicator were
combined. I coiled up and cut to extend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The side lights were next to get the same treatment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only outstanding problems were a pair of
connectors that were unused in the donor car I suspect they are either day
running lights or possibly the fog lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I will have to check the wiring manual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now it was the time to
check the other connectors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fans
were okay although I had to run a new common back to the main common
connector.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are also a pair of
commons that previously connected to the metal body work on the donor car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I kept them on for know and will extend them
to the metal sub-frame if necessary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The only other pair of
cables was the air intake temperature sensor which I will extend I’m just not
sure how far to extend it though.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">With regards extending
cables, I have a bunch of crimps but chose to extend the cables by soldering
the joints and covering the joint with heat shrink tubes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I specifically chose cut points that I should
be able to get to once the loom is back in place in the car should I suffer and
problems later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know the headlights
will need the connectors cutting off but not until the headlights are in place
and then I will create a loom and use the crimped bullet connectors. <o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-77399757203464348122012-06-26T22:03:00.000+01:002012-06-26T22:03:18.406+01:00Day 75: Silence is not Golden<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I have been trying to get
in touch with Ben and Graham without success.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I don’t have much in equipment outstanding but I could do with as much
data as possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If as they have stated
previously they have gone silent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I recently went to the
Stoneleigh kit car show hoping to find a fellow Murtaya owner so I could get
some photos of a completed model to help with the build. But all I found was
Arden Automotives, for want of a better description, rough build.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was complete, but unpainted and in its
roughest form to pass IVA and it was for sale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It looked like an earlier version of the tub from looking at the
condition of the GRP components, there was no carpeting, the dash wasn’t the
same, the internal door release were manual levers from the donor car, it had
no door windows and in all it was bare to say the least.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looked like it had been thrown together -
literally. So much so I didn’t take any photos. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The show itself was a
little subdued compared to the previous shows I’d been to highlighting the
struggling self build and custom build industry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However there were some new ideas and some
interesting developments including a couple of MX5 shell switchovers. One from
Tribute Automotive converts a series 1 mx5 into what looks like a Ferrari 250
GTO without requiring an IVA test.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
makes for a low cost alternative for car builder wannabes and MEV showed its
alternative skin option by actually doing it in the show in about 20 minutes (pre-work
had already been done e.g. disconnection of headlights and etc).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The clubs made up for the
somewhat subdued manufacturers halls, and the weather held off to bring out a
fascinating range of cars. I managed to find the Single Ronart W152 which is
another one of my favourites.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-59698608654833970472012-06-26T21:59:00.003+01:002012-06-26T21:59:44.980+01:00Day 74 Exhausting trip to Horncastle<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I haven’t been able to do
much since before Christmas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But now
things have warmed up again (above freezing) I decided to make another
start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having worked with cables in my
job I know messing about with cables when it is freezing below 1 deg C is a bad
idea as the insulation can crack – Granted I’m talking about Steel Wired
Armoured cable the thickness of my forearm but with a 14 year old wiring
harness and the fact I’m freezing my butt off I decided not to risk it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So my primary concern is
the hole for this wiring harness from the engine bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The problem being to keep it away from the turbo
catalytic convertor and down pipe, but not such that it will be exposed in the
wheel arch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have to do the same with
the throttle cable but that is protected by its metal and plastic sheath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After mulling this over I decided I would
need to put the downpipe in place to see what space I have to play with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The HKS down pipe (marked competition use
only) was not going to be any good as the downpipe I would be using would have
a catalytic convertor round about the area I want to put the cabling
harness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I put a few questions
together for the lads at MSC one being where can I get a downpipe with a
cat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Last night, having not heard
anything from the lads for a week I went hunting on Ebay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I have been looking round the
internet on several occasions over the last few months the costs to be honest
depressed me with figures of £400 - £500 for a full system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With all the cars around that have had the
cats removed and downpipes increased in bore you would have thought there must
be somewhere I can get a second hand unit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The cat is important the reason being the IVA test on emissions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Emissions levels on the
IVA is one of the more “political issues” on the test.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The levels are, I believe, the same as any
MOT test.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, most of the
replacement cats available online that say they will pass MOT will only
actually pass when they are Hot full operating temperature.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the IVA test they put a temperature probe
in the oil dip pipe and take the emissions reading from when the oil reaches 80
Deg C at which point the cat is not fully up to normal operating temperature
hence it can fail on emissions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is
what I am trying to avoid, obviously.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So back to the internet.
After trying a few more new websites which told me nothing I didn’t already know
I gave Ebay one last try.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jackpot! There
it was a Full classic STI exhaust system original downpipe, 2 Catalytic
convertors and a Subaru back box.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
still had 6 days to run but with no bidders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My own paranoia made me decide not to bid but to pay the asking price.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got a call from the seller half an hour
later and this morning with the sun shining I drove across the bridge en route
to Horncastle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The seller wasn’t there it
was his father in law who ran a small garage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The unit had been his son in laws who had used it to get his Subaru
through its MOT each year until he crashed it a couple of years ago and was now
driving a 2.5litre model.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Closer
inspection showed it in good condition with nothing from my limited understanding
to indicate there was anything wrong with it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>So money paid we put it in the back of my car. This leaves me with a
small issue for later on the pipe ID is 57mm whilst the tail pipe unit in the
kit is 72mm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This I will solve
later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is not a difficult problem.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Other questions I put to
the lads @ MSC<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were the structural PU
adhesive nobody local or internet could offer me anything that they would
describe as structural PU this had been really frustrating. I chatted with a
mate at work and he directed me to a the U-Pol site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After some browsing I found U-Pol Stronghold panel
adhesive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A fast curing adhesive
designed to stick GRP panels together and GRP to Aluminium which U-pol
describes as semi-flexible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is as
close as I can find to what Graham had described in previous discussions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s not cheap @ £27.00 for a 200ml tube but
at least I can make progress.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">My other question which I
need a response to is this cable hole was if they knew of another owner that I
could ask for some photos of the cable routing in the engine bay round the
turbo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-51459645038734894202012-06-26T21:44:00.001+01:002012-06-26T21:44:48.022+01:00Day 73: Winter is coming and the goose is getting fat... well me actually<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The winter solstice
tomorrow, at last the nights will start getting shorter. It is bloody freezing
in the garage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Work is not progressing
at any rate of knots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every time I reach
a point where I have to think what to do next or work out what needs to go
where I start to freeze. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Note to self: Next time you build a garage fit under
floor heating.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I tried laying out the
wiring loom about the garage floor on cardboard and identified which plugs I
would need and which I wouldn’t.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those
that I wouldn’t need I taped up to the loom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Once I was reasonably satisfied I laid it in the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled the loom for the rear of the car as
well as the boot release. I figured to use the bottom boot catch as a grounding
point for the rear lights. So I removed the boot lid latch and mounted the
bottom release (the last thing I need to do was lock the boot with no method of
release).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Then I came across a
problem the connector for the fuel pump and sender harness was halfway down in the sill
of the car and there was no way the fuel pump loom would reach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This would be the start of the harness
modifications.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had recently bought a
couple of reels of cable red, black, brown and blue. At least I can keep warm
with the soldering iron.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">I pressed on with the other
legs of the loom passing them through the forward bulkhead into the engine bay
working out the other changes I would have to make.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The windscreen wiper motor would now be
mounted inside the car instead of the in the engine bay as it was on the donor
car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a new mono wiper blade
system. And I’m assuming the screen wash “bladder bag” and pump will also go in
the inside but will have to confirm with the lads at MSC before stripping back
the loom so the cables.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was
something wrong and it was bugging me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The internal fuse board. The board was originally mounted above and to
the right of the accelerator.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The board
links to both the internal loom and to the engine bay loom. So getting the
position right is going to be critical.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And so far the harness isn’t in the right place to mount the board.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now because the distance between the wheel is
actually shorter (hence the prop shaft had to be shortened) in theory I should
have a bit more loom spare. But I still have the problem of cutting a hole for
the engine bay loom.</span>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-11428794958208213952011-12-19T15:59:00.000+00:002011-12-19T15:59:51.115+00:00Day72 - A fellow builder<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I received a call on Saturday evening from Stuart a fellow Murtaya builder who was coming up to see his in-laws and was I available to meet and go over the car build for a couple of hours. I said I’d love to, sent him my address and at 1:30 Sunday afternoon Stuart put his head over the fence. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Stuart wasn’t as far in with his build due to his relocation from Ireland to Bristol. But as he was going to face the same problems I’m facing shortly with wiring etc. we both had questions and solutions we could talk through.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the things he couldn’t work out was the steering knuckle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The modified shaft which was supposed to be extended 90mm but Stuart’s appeared to be longer from the photo’s he had taken.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We compared the photo’s against my steering link and the appeared to be about 50 mm difference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No wonder he was struggling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A minor problem the guys at MSC will soon correct I’m sure.<o:p></o:p></span></div><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The next question was the rear brake pipes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went through Grahams suggestion of mounting the pipe on the inner wing behind the shock and spring and then clipping it back to the Diff nose mount. However my preference was to run the pipe along the trailing arm of the suspension from the diff nose bracket to the shock which has a brake pipe mounting point on the back of the shock and then to the brake calliper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This keeps the pipe away from the wheel and minimises the range of flex movement in the pipe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stuart agreed with my idea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both options are viable and secure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact looking at the donor car the brake flexes were in a similar configuration to Graham’s suggestion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But they were removable flexes on to hard pipes.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">We went on to discuss the engine bay wiring loom. The problem with the wiring looms that I had discovered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had spoken to Ben at MSC about mating the engine bay connections to the rest of the loom (there are 4 multi-pole plugs to connect) It would appear because I had an ABS variety Donor car the wiring loom in the engine bay was different to anything they had worked on in the shop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So Stuart and I looked into options.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My original thought of routing it to an existing hole which took it above the exhaust down pipe has a problem the connections on the interior loom were on the other side of the steering column. I thought about extending the rear loom but that would mean the internal fuse board would have to be moved above the heater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled the inner wings out of the garage loft and clamped them in place to see what space was available.<o:p></o:p></span></div><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">We decided that a hole would be possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exact location will depend on how the loom is worked around the engine sub-frame and how much spare there is to play with. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">A second hole that would need cutting was the accelerator cable now because of the location of the wheel arch and the go faster pedal the cable looks like it would have to go through the inner wing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stuart had an idea of mounting and angled plate in a hole in the bulkhead to allow the cable an easier path.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I pointed out a number of things which will be extras that I need to buy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because the engine bay fuse board is now in the location where the fuel filer used to be on the donor car I couldn’t find a suitable new location for the filter unit as it is a substantial piece.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A quick check of the CBS catalogue revealed a simpler in line replacement would cost about £12 and make a much neater job.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other items included pipe reducers for the cabin heater, as the existing pipes are larger than the fittings on the heater matrix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The relays I was going to use for the hazard warning switch. Trimming the front windscreen frame to allow the screen to fit because the top corner radi needed to be shorter.<o:p></o:p></span></div><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">All in all we had about 3 hours picking up points from each other, swapping stories and discussing options – I thoroughly enjoyed it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But by the time Stuart left I was freezing cold and with work tomorrow I tided up and put all the toys away.<o:p></o:p></span>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-14579043232969485172011-12-19T15:57:00.000+00:002011-12-19T15:57:13.585+00:00Day71 - all coming together<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I have a few days off and decided to get some progress made on the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The last evenings effort with Dan had wound me up and I was keen to make some more progress, so this entry covers a number of days.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">First thing that had bugged me was the steering rack track rod ends. The hub fastening nut was a castllated nut with a split pin hole in the shaft.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though I had cleared up the thread the nuts were seizing after one or two turns. With the greased up bearing I wasn’t able to get purchase on the thread to wind the nut on with a spanner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I even knocked the track rod end, which has a tapered fit, into the hub. But it was breaking free when I put the spanner on the nut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now the taper fit should have been secure but it kept breaking free.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Further investigation revealed some excess paint from when I had painted the hubs had dripped into the tapered hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cleared the paint away and knocked the rod ends in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This time they lock fast and with the aid of some copper slip I worked the nuts onto the thread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This time everything was fast and solid. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I decided to mount the front anti-roll bar I had previously cleaned the brackets and links up and gave them a lick or three of paint and mounted the bar. It didn’t seem to fit quite right and after looking at the original photos, taken during donor disassembly, I realised the links were upside down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quickly remedied, I then decided to lower the on to its wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">After lowering the car off the axle stands I cleared the area front and back of the car and moved the car back and forth to help clean the brakes up a bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The disks are binding on the pads but a decent run would clean them up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My rolling the car back and forth wouldn’t do the job properly but it did become easier as the pads cleaned up the surface rust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s not much room in the garage but there was enough for one full rotation of the wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I then decided to put some of the pipes and sensors back on the engine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I plan to start the wiring soon and putting all the sensors in place would make identifying the wiring routes easier. I had a number of the brackets that I need to clean up and paint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The temperature has dropped and I have now resorted to painting the brackets and parts in the kitchen and the living room because the paint is like treacle.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">One of my biggest worries about this project is putting all the sensors back together correctly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A colleague at work had an STI and blew the turbo then after laying out a grand to have a new turbo fitted which after 100miles running in the turbo blew because it had been incorrectly plumbed in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remember as I took them off that each on made sense and I labelled it as best I could. But as I was taking the Inlet manifold off I had one sensor that was totally free of any connection electrical or pipe. I now had absolutely no idea where this sensor connected. I had realised this when the engine went in that this sensor was lose and it had always been a worry at the back of my mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now the sensor can go back in place and I piped up one side to the inlet manifold but I couldn’t for the life of me find where the other side of the sensor pipes to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked everywhere including trying to mount the intercooler.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pipe isn’t that long so it has to be somewhere in that area. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">It took me a while, but eventually, I found it there was a small pipe underneath the inlet manifold which is part of the fuel vent system.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> I continued adding the sensors and equipment that had been mounted on the inner wings of the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bracketry would need to be cleaned and painted.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorAeigwRR_jLq7jOfibSs3I3fK4o25-emsLzkI55iLWnFcLztSAUzaH7FU6-Zpt8_Da3Z0sJTWiQAyry3Jn6FEBt2ElbH9nPZE4mUlxJZA6fJNCTF7kxDB53PwulPzP5QyffsFlBThoo/s1600/Pc190770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorAeigwRR_jLq7jOfibSs3I3fK4o25-emsLzkI55iLWnFcLztSAUzaH7FU6-Zpt8_Da3Z0sJTWiQAyry3Jn6FEBt2ElbH9nPZE4mUlxJZA6fJNCTF7kxDB53PwulPzP5QyffsFlBThoo/s640/Pc190770.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now with all the pipes now connected bar one, the vacuum pipe for the brake servo unit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The end on the brake servo was not a problem and fitted straight on but the other end was short by an inch -1 bleeding inch! The metal pipe that runs across the bulkhead from the servo to the other side of the engine has 2 mountings and I guess the bulkhead on the doner car was designed not to be flat across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mounting the pipe off the bulkhead would not look good so for the sake of 1 inch I need a metre of vacuum pipe. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">With the exception of the intercooler and its piping, which will be one of the lasts things to go on, I can move on to the wiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But first I fitted the pitch stop the bracket had a 8 mm hole but the kit has a 10mm bolt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So out with the step cutter to widen the hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then there was another problem the bracket was about 1 mm narrower than the actual pitch stop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A flat file soon trimmed the proud bush face on each side and it slipped in no problem.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3oFYqiHEpiaIWN5q32M5kzVPW9JaTDiAAmGRIyCcVYUW6jBPUnsjVOFY88cHA2wLEHk5PIUlMHvqer17cx0RyqIE38gGuWRtlxLsPT-UtQ7qbiJiw8OZVnB4LF2IqDaTzPZgn1I7YbEo/s1600/Pc190774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3oFYqiHEpiaIWN5q32M5kzVPW9JaTDiAAmGRIyCcVYUW6jBPUnsjVOFY88cHA2wLEHk5PIUlMHvqer17cx0RyqIE38gGuWRtlxLsPT-UtQ7qbiJiw8OZVnB4LF2IqDaTzPZgn1I7YbEo/s640/Pc190774.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I opened the red trunk I had stored the wiring harnesses in and heaved out the mass of wires and plugs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went through each wiring loom identifying the sockets I would be reusing and taping up the bits of harness and plugs that wouldn’t be used e.g rear door switches and harnesses.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QW3aQGTJQzG8kMJ39cul1yXV19vnZgQKMo4WdQMsBHLHCR6WPVuuKnE7fYlt3n75DDmlnSb0TT9YQi37wUXNgzc1cmS4pjaq0A3b2ip0mQn0CUb_sBYX7eQceqhwi6y8FKIZiOYObkA/s1600/Pb210763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QW3aQGTJQzG8kMJ39cul1yXV19vnZgQKMo4WdQMsBHLHCR6WPVuuKnE7fYlt3n75DDmlnSb0TT9YQi37wUXNgzc1cmS4pjaq0A3b2ip0mQn0CUb_sBYX7eQceqhwi6y8FKIZiOYObkA/s640/Pb210763.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The biggest problem at the moment is actually the modifications/additions that have been made to the car. In my case the Speedo (Kmh to Mph)conversion, Auto Window closers and the Alarm/immobiliser system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The problem being that the installers chose the easiest points to make the connections. And why not – I can’t blame them. I managed to disconnect the window closers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I might still use them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Regarding the speedo conversion I need to think about the dial still reads KM/H for the IVA I need it to say MPH. The cheap answer would be to stick a dymo “MPH” label over the KM/H. Intermediate answer would be to find an MPH dial card and replace the old card (this should have been done when the convertor was installed but I figure it was a home job and the previous owner chickened out taking the dials to pieces. The full price job would be to replace the clocks with a UK set but this has its issues as apparently there are numerous clocks available and the wiring looms vary which could turn into a major headache.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I might also think about swapping the indicator/wiper stalk unit for one that has the UK standard indicators on left wipers on right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This might have similar wiring issues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But these are issues for further down the line.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Once I was reasonably happy with the wiring I put the loom for the engine bay around the engine and immediately think I’ve got a problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bulkhead has three holes pre cut for the wiring looms to pass through I found myself thinking I would need a fourth – and not a small one.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So, where to start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the photos of the orange demo car I took at the Shropshire show I saw that the fuse has been moved back a few inches on to the subframe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This looks as if it will work but I was a bracket short and the existing bracket needed cleaning and painting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I plugged the engine bay loom into the fuse board and laid it loosely round the engine bay to see how much cabling I had to play with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looked like I could get the end with 4 connectors through one of the existing holes but it would mean going close to and above the turbo and exhaust down pipe which I felt was undesirable. But I continued to fit the other looms in the car. My first struggle was getting the main loom over the steering column until I realised that 5 bolts would remove the steering column from the equation and make life a lot easier.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZY8v54AzVHXwaqD10rvADPs6sF7E0m2YKRQMAmWqZzOIYSz5llwHw0iJiIH4Q3LAJrHq4lUwog7XiK4wmeSH2ZkhDn-NzeVXiBXURzcTHPsJQJrIyVxlsn8SbmZbBErOaGsttt2mIa4/s1600/Pc190776.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZY8v54AzVHXwaqD10rvADPs6sF7E0m2YKRQMAmWqZzOIYSz5llwHw0iJiIH4Q3LAJrHq4lUwog7XiK4wmeSH2ZkhDn-NzeVXiBXURzcTHPsJQJrIyVxlsn8SbmZbBErOaGsttt2mIa4/s640/Pc190776.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now it may sound strange but as I worked the looms through the holes into the engine bay and round to the back of the car it started feeling strangely familiar and everything was falling into place and making sense. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I had noted that the hazard warning lights switch was something a little peculiar in that it had 8 cables connected to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I knew I needed a couple of relays for the heated windscreen so I popped down to a local auto electric shop and asked them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was much sucking teeth and “well its not that straight forward”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hmm to be fair they gave me an auto electric catalogue which will come in useful. I came back home and opened my Data file with all the wiring diagrams in and found the wiring for the hazard switch. There were basically three circuits into the switch unit, two triggered simultaneously on pressing the switch and the third was the back light illumination on the switch.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The first of the two circuits was a supply switchover and a left/right circuit short.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The hazard circuit is fused separately to the normal indicator circuit (which is on the ignition circuit) so a standard changeover relay is required there (Durite part no. 0-728-12).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second switch circuit links the left and right indicator circuits together with the flasher circuit so both sides flash in unison. I thought about using two relays for this job. But going through the catalogue found a double make and break relay (Durite part no. 0-727-22) which according to the diagram was exactly what I was looking for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I rang the suppliers back and added the relays to my order. I can then use a fuse on the ancillary fuse board to trigger the relays from the new hazard pushbutton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This solution looks simpler than the description of a solution Ben described over the phone which if I’m honest he lost me when talking it through. But it seemed to involve running cables to each indicator.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-47029175981809074712011-12-19T13:52:00.000+00:002011-12-19T13:52:31.648+00:00Day 60 - A frustrating evening<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Dan can round one evening to assist me mounting the bonnet in place on the car and mount the aero locks to the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first problem was deciding which locks we had the Aeros were either model 120 or 125 but it didn’t state which they were and the instructions for each were on opposite sides of the page and the cutout had different radi and where the difference was noted a 0.4mm the reality was there was a 4mm difference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it was out with the callipers to check and double check.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once we had decided which profile we were cutting to we taped templates to the sides of the bonnet based on a centre line drawn parallel to the lower edge of the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Things didn’t look right we checked and measured again the measurements seem right but the angle of the template looked wrong on the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided this wasn’t happening and reckoned we would stand a better chance once the bonnet was mounted on the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If, as with a number of occasions with this car, there were no fast rules or measuring points as to where things need to be exactly it would be a case of where ever looks right.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">So to mounting the bonnet we lay the bonnet on the car and clamped the brackets to the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a good look round to find the bonnet was actually resting on the power steering reservoir and the oil filler. So we lifted the height on the bracket adjustments and tried again. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This time is was clear of the engine but the back edge was fouling on the “A” pillar on the passenger side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was not about to start cutting the back of the bonnet at this time of night so we finished some what frustrated at the lack of progress.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-58446029483118354972011-12-19T13:50:00.000+00:002011-12-19T13:50:03.220+00:00Day59 - An all round Star<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The “Powerfile” took longer to arrive and when it did it was missing two components.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So back it went and it took a couple of weeks freepost to return.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did some searching online and it would appear that although the details state there were two accessories they do not include them and you can’t get them online.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily they refunded my cash. So I was looking for a tool that I could use to finish off the intakes once the saw had done its job.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then I saw the all rounder from Bosch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few videos online showed it cutting metal and wood flush to a surface.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made my mind up to give it a try and wow I’ll be flogging the reciprocating saw.<o:p></o:p></span> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXayjTG65xWNBK5JL_bRqUP3GxoidPEQHdrUZiShBxEcaBj1AWR8slDArFgbgvkVl5RwReg-yw6QiRsfVKz02o67CA8gi57XVlsHUjVuy7g7QlmmkZH61TXBIvQKwxnSEI5J8ey07IPx0/s1600/Pb060759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXayjTG65xWNBK5JL_bRqUP3GxoidPEQHdrUZiShBxEcaBj1AWR8slDArFgbgvkVl5RwReg-yw6QiRsfVKz02o67CA8gi57XVlsHUjVuy7g7QlmmkZH61TXBIvQKwxnSEI5J8ey07IPx0/s400/Pb060759.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">This little tool cut straight lines through the GRP like it was butter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It worked a treat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Louis, Nicola, Mark, Jenny and James turned up to show Louis and James the car and have a bit of a catch up. I haven’t seen Louis in a couple of years but he has been following my progress on here. This was the first time he’d actually seen the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was James’ first time to see it as well but seeing as he is two years old it might be a while before he truly appreciates it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although to his credit he did ask a few questions.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I didn’t get much done for the afternoon a local Neighbourhood watch meeting with the local police community support officers took an hour and there were issues that needed addressing. Once done I cracked on with the cutting. With the noise of the all rounder, drill and Dremel I didn’t hear any of the fireworks going off nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Louis texted me asking if I was joining them at the local fireworks I suddenly realised the time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sorry Satch! It would take me over an hour to tidy up and washed and out so I sent my apologies and cracked on with the bonnet.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR7Wmz61evHVwxdAocelELQ5Lcys3wJcg-EIjy5Aj4FQZROYZLzBXPudz5LQ6a2AfRS9u7Y-0NLsNLrp8U8g2GHKSsmQ7aH_J8gGU0YCVoEm9rVZv73FU7aZCdapzGGgEkngZZX7L_P1E/s1600/P9210749a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR7Wmz61evHVwxdAocelELQ5Lcys3wJcg-EIjy5Aj4FQZROYZLzBXPudz5LQ6a2AfRS9u7Y-0NLsNLrp8U8g2GHKSsmQ7aH_J8gGU0YCVoEm9rVZv73FU7aZCdapzGGgEkngZZX7L_P1E/s640/P9210749a.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Sunday morning, suns out and time to finish the vents on the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The all rounder has been brilliant and I’ve made some progress yesterday and now it is time to finish it off. When I cut the 4 top bonnet vents I was wondering what to do about the top cut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had already done the bottom cuts no problem. But I need to make a parallel cut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked around the garage and found a piece of Kitchen worktop splash back which I cut to the desired shape to fit in the “duct”. This, in principle, was fine however the duct has a curvature in it causing the piece of splashback to rock a bit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took a chance and made the cut placing the all rounder on the piece of splashback ensuring the wood under the blade was always flat against the bonnet. Then I realised I had made a basic error I should have drilled out the two ends first But I was so concerned about getting the straight edges right I forgot about the ends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I managed to rectify the issue by cutting diagonally through the waste between the two cuts and finishing off with a file. Job done. I moved on to the rear side vents which after looking at various photos of murtaya on line these are a multitude of shapes and in some cases they haven’t been cut at all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I did remember Graham telling me that whilst they are largely aesthetic they are not entirely without use as they act as handles when lifting the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to put them in as the last thing I want is to lose control of the bonnet as it is being lifted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After which I called it a day and noticed that every cobweb in the garage was now “snowcovered”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-60027972530020101912011-12-19T13:41:00.000+00:002011-12-19T13:41:25.811+00:00Day 58 - Finish off and start the next job<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Today I mounted the Front brake callipers, finished off the hand brake cables mounting the donor car P clips on the Diff nose bracket and the diff nose bracket...bracket if you get my drift. The photo will explain better.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NEfbYreHyvnkuFhDRdxCJwLdyLJ7yChHkENJ_Stidz0Clc7Oh73xAUiEStE1Ly_Z015QkHyln5USmheYz2hWfEjN9IOAhM299O2QiTplBDm0_sNVlakgu-aLAutJ3UiN6yBNV-hYkSY/s1600/Pc190768.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NEfbYreHyvnkuFhDRdxCJwLdyLJ7yChHkENJ_Stidz0Clc7Oh73xAUiEStE1Ly_Z015QkHyln5USmheYz2hWfEjN9IOAhM299O2QiTplBDm0_sNVlakgu-aLAutJ3UiN6yBNV-hYkSY/s320/Pc190768.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The prop shaft centre mount was next I drilled out the pilot hole on the passenger side and fitted the bolt replacing the 60mm M10’s with 40mm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried to drill the driver’s side at an angle but in the end I trimmed the spreader washer and ground a small groove in the tunnel so the bolt fitted square - Job done.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsrO-vN3B7yPDEIU32t9-uZ3fCWBSNapufrw2ZrdnEKXVEQrCRntk4be-YrL0_R3F5FC8FF-TIOklmA0ZGanIfLk24as1Jsx0G5RjQ7ukdr8qAO6n0Hxm1B9Z2n6kefq_EP-v9Kb74QGs/s1600/Pc190769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsrO-vN3B7yPDEIU32t9-uZ3fCWBSNapufrw2ZrdnEKXVEQrCRntk4be-YrL0_R3F5FC8FF-TIOklmA0ZGanIfLk24as1Jsx0G5RjQ7ukdr8qAO6n0Hxm1B9Z2n6kefq_EP-v9Kb74QGs/s320/Pc190769.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I took the bonnet off its resting place on the car and put it on the floor and broke out the reciprocating saw.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I covered the car and a few other areas with dust cloths and marked I line around the cut out area on the three grille areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This line was about 5mm inside the final edge to give me something to play with when finishing the edge. I used the dremel to cut slots in the waste area and then used the saw to join the slots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plan is to use a power file, dremel and hand files to finish the edge off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-42042829959468113722011-10-12T13:16:00.000+01:002011-10-12T13:16:10.890+01:00Day 57 - start hanging things on it<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">This morning it was back to the garage and make a start on the bonnet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wasn’t too sure where to start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a lot of work to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cut out the vents, all 12 of them, there were the headlight mounting plates to glue, cut out the bonnet locks, indicators, trim back the rear edge(to stop it hitting the windscreen later) and mount the hinge brackets.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">First thing I used the dremel to cut a hole in the large front grilles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Big enough to get the reciprocating saw in. It then occurred to me this was going to make a big mess.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was raining outside so I can’t do it out in the back yard. I was going to have to do it in the garage that meant covering over everything I didn’t want to get covered in dust. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I decided that I would have to cover the engine and the car, my bikes and a few other areas so I put the cutting on hold and decided to bolt a few more pieces to the car, if only temporary, to get them out of the way and under cover.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I mounted the boot lid on its hinges and had a play trying to get the alignment right again. Now the car is on its wheels it is a lot easier to work with. I have two holes left to drill for the high level brake light cabling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One on the bracket and one under the same bracket in the lid so it looks like the photo sent by Graham.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I fit the radiator unit the top mounting bracket had a good thick layer of dry powder coat on it and the tabs that fit in the side brackets had to be sanded down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I checked the nut and bolt schedule there appeared to be 2 bolts missing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The top plate has two holes in it which line up with rubber mounting grommets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a couple of M8 x40 bolts which were left over from the steering column bracket so with a couple of washers and nyloc nuts to fix the bolts in place on the top bracket. Seeing as I was on with the cooling system I fitted the expansion tank and filler pipe. The line between the filler pipe and the metal pipe that runs across the top of the radiator the radius is now too tight and has a double kink in it so I think it will have to replaced.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I looked at the power steering radiator (also known as a bent piece of pipe) previously on the donor car the pipe was mounted in front of the radiator using one of the old radiator mounting brackets (now redundant) and fastening on to the front frame of the donor shell Which doesn’t exist any more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some searching around on the facebook photos revealed from the IBIS White car is the interchanger is completely missing. A little further investigation on the orange demo car reveals they have bypassed the cooling pipe also. Guess it is not required then.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Next the bonnet mounting brackets as soon as I put the bolt through bringing the rose joint and bracket together I spotted a couple of issues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Firstly there is no way I can get the nut on the bolt. There simply is not enough room. A quick check on the photos I’d taken of the demo car at the Stafford show revealed split pins in the bolts instead of the nyloc nuts so that shouldn’t be a problem. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Secondly the shape of the rose joint fouls the bracket I suspect before the bonnet reaches its safe raised position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some fettling required here as, whilst it is not designed as a stop, there is a metal check strap for that it would be the next point of contact if the bonnet swings any further over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I need to mount the brackets on the bonnet and see how it all lines up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First things first, after cleaning it of dust, I laid the Bonnet on the car to see how it all lined up. I couldn’t help taking a couple of photos. The back end of the bonnet will need trimming down and the sides will be held by the aero fittings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The front to back position I wasn’t too worried about it was the side to side position that concerned me. But time was running short and I had places to be so I called it a day.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">But It looks sooo good!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wf7Tvk9Nz0-uatvNudqEwiKASC1w9ICw6cAKKj5qIc8Abn4E1c4e7XPbwMJNuqQgs7lVUUND-eqkGgnM7Q6P34EgQFIeYb0Bl5760QEDU3fpgyc1RLDfpK0AlwNkhDYh7QCcmv30r2E/s1600/09102011133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wf7Tvk9Nz0-uatvNudqEwiKASC1w9ICw6cAKKj5qIc8Abn4E1c4e7XPbwMJNuqQgs7lVUUND-eqkGgnM7Q6P34EgQFIeYb0Bl5760QEDU3fpgyc1RLDfpK0AlwNkhDYh7QCcmv30r2E/s640/09102011133.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-54393145606602581812011-10-12T13:13:00.000+01:002011-10-12T13:13:58.463+01:00Day 56 - finishing off the big night<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I managed to press the bush out no problem and with no damage I was able to reverse it and press it back in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was only when I got home I realised the lads who’d said it fitted no problem also had the same problem but thrown it together and it wasn’t sitting right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bugger! The thought occurred that because I had accidently put the bushes on backwards and if I had just swapped them over everything would have been fine. Doh!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So it was off to work again and press out the other bush and turn it around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took less than ten minutes to do it I’ve had that much practice. On the way back I popped into my parents to drill out the old sheared or split pins on the rod ends of the steering rack on a bench drill.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Back in the garage I put the front suspension assemblies together, fitted the wheels and went on to the steering rack which took 3 attempts to get the pipes and steering shaft through the hole in the sub-frame.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But after much sweating and cussing I managed to fit it all through and nipped up the pipe fittings.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I then went on to the prop shaft.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d checked with Graham.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Earlier models of Impreza had spacers between the centre mount and the underside of the car tunnel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My donor didn’t have any but the bolts provided were 60 mm with a shoulder so I will have to borrow a 10mm die to extend the thread or find some replacements. I greased the gearbox end of the prop shaft fitted it to the gearbox and fixed the tail end. I marked out the centres for the centre mount after centralising the prop shaft measuring the point where the prop enters the diff nose mount. I drilled pilot holes to see where the holes came out on the top side of the monocoque tunnel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The passenger side came out fine, I’ll get a nut and washer on there no problem, but the driver’s side is close to the tunnel wall and may require a bit of fettling.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I’d had enough for the day but couldn’t resist lowering the car from the axle stands and get it standing on its own wheels. Yay! It now looks more like a car and less of an oversized bath tub. And I called it a night.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVUzX7qLcea660yJXg-Iz6FyNifuOLh0twmm4t7vAjfHiSNIxYIXe0endjBENpwglqKNDYdwDILpppFFtwPb_7R_eEa-b-QUUtixYzz1alCJ0J71jmelAE9K5ZZow-fkH7fB9thWIcWQ/s1600/09102011132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVUzX7qLcea660yJXg-Iz6FyNifuOLh0twmm4t7vAjfHiSNIxYIXe0endjBENpwglqKNDYdwDILpppFFtwPb_7R_eEa-b-QUUtixYzz1alCJ0J71jmelAE9K5ZZow-fkH7fB9thWIcWQ/s640/09102011132.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-17550517696899045262011-10-12T12:49:00.000+01:002011-10-12T12:49:46.534+01:00Day 55 - It’s the big night - This time it has 4 wheels on... or not<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Earlier in the week I had managed to get half a dozen friends co-ordinated so that they all turned up around the same time on Thursday evening…well except for Carl who turned up late as per the norm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To recap this is how it went<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">First fit the rear wheels and square the tub on the frame. </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">– This went fine and I was able to drill clear the gearbox mounting hole that had caused so much trouble so long ago.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Second lift the front and push the engine and gearbox under the front sub-frame (the engine is currently sat on the engine crane legs). </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">– No problem. I also knocked away the cross braces with a mallet.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Third lift the front and rear together and remove the timber frames. And position two axle stands at the front corners of the tub. (I think this will have to be done quickly) </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">–This didn’t go quite according to plan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With four guys at the back they tried to lift the back up but couldn’t do it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stood there and a though flashed through my mind “Note to self: find bigger mates.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The problem being there was no more room round the back of the car to get a hold. We shuffled the guys around putting the two guys at the front at the back as they were larger and two of the lighter guys to the front<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Fourth lower the rear onto its wheels and the front onto axle stands. With the front guys guiding the sub-frame around the engine. </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We tried again and the back lifted no problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the lads telling Carl, now at the front, to lift also! Late again Carl!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled one frame out and replaced it at the front with and axle stand and repeated the same with the other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And gently the car was lowered on to its wheels and stands. Excellent!<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Fifth lift the engine into place with the engine crane and fasten all the sub-frame bolts </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">– Using the engine crane we lifted the engine into place and secured the sub-frame with four bolts and I went under the car to fasten the gearbox mounts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The heavy work done! A call from Mike “Which side are you nipping up first?” I replied “Your side Mike”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From my laid out position under the car all I could see were 6 pairs of feet two pairs at the front 2 pairs on each side – I had no idea which feet were Mike’s. So after a moments pause “Which side are you on Mike?” Everyone burst out laughing - the delivery was perfect!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But eventually every thing fastened in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the holes lined up perfectly and I was able to connect the gear stick rear mounting bracket. A perfect fit – Brilliant!<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Sixth mount the front wheel suspension arms and mount the wheels and steering rack to the sub frame.</span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> We split up into two teams to do each front swing arm but Mike had a problem. The rear bush wasn’t sitting right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently the lads at the other side all fit fine and after a bit of investigation I came to the conclusion I must have mounted the bush in backwards – Bugger!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was nothing left to do but have a beer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ll get the bush pressed out at work tomorrow.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #0070c0; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">And finally lift the car off the front axle stands with the engine crane and or trolley jack lower my baby on to its “feet”. </span><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Five out of six ain’t bad.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-68460208994139849522011-10-12T12:41:00.000+01:002011-10-12T12:41:58.040+01:00Day 54 - the boot lock<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">This afternoon I decided to drill the holes for the lock mechanism on the boot. I’d received basic measurements from Ben for the lock centre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the CKC build the located the lock in line with the hole cut in the back and then made an extension rod to suit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However Graham just moved the lock closer to the latch and use the existing connecting rod.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So using his measurements I cut the lock hole with a 20mm hole saw then I tried an OCC – American Chopper method of putting tape over the donor car lock hole and cutting the key profiles out and then transfer the tape to the boot lid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi542aWQuMuPe5WhyRb90XLi_uPK7NiD-h7LLAM3bCRhotjfw1hgkXw-qGxZMpxMjbTaSuKA1CqOe2LTXHTmm5DAoPkd05Th4E3d3jYP59FkRLwV8HaXppoJBCIUySYcSmWWqZIzNKxcmU/s1600/Pa010745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi542aWQuMuPe5WhyRb90XLi_uPK7NiD-h7LLAM3bCRhotjfw1hgkXw-qGxZMpxMjbTaSuKA1CqOe2LTXHTmm5DAoPkd05Th4E3d3jYP59FkRLwV8HaXppoJBCIUySYcSmWWqZIzNKxcmU/s640/Pa010745.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Can’t say it really worked that well if I’m honest but that was probably down to the workers technique rather than the tools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it worked. I drilled the last hole for the connecting rod to fit through which seemed in the photos to be larger than necessary. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But when the rod is in place the rod is at an angle so moves laterally when operated with the key.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6esJYD_6HZbK1QIVmAkjARpU02kJWxHUABRPK6_la8vHFaj8Z485Fvaa6PqbEl4io0oOptCMejvA_7Txbuypl7rQDEuA47PmfbIFTcC1da9m2zlXzIZyC9xN2VNg7L1O4agrrVFhI1E/s1600/Pa010746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6esJYD_6HZbK1QIVmAkjARpU02kJWxHUABRPK6_la8vHFaj8Z485Fvaa6PqbEl4io0oOptCMejvA_7Txbuypl7rQDEuA47PmfbIFTcC1da9m2zlXzIZyC9xN2VNg7L1O4agrrVFhI1E/s640/Pa010746.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-37658851409450930022011-10-12T12:38:00.000+01:002011-10-12T12:38:42.183+01:00Day 53 We are having a late summer<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">The weather being on the up I took a couple of days off work top see what I could get done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d put an order in the CBS Online for some nyloc and standard nuts, longer bolts and tube (for spacers) which I would need for the seat mounts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Honda seats are great but the rail mounts need moving inward to fit in to the tub.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Previously I’d taken the rails to my Dad’s workshop and with his help drilled out the rivets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now with the delivery I can re-assemble the rails. I cut the tube in to 25mm sleeves all 24 of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I then mounted the two main pieces offset with long bolts and spacers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now here’s where it got interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I put it together on the seat the slide lock fouled the seat base.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I referred back to the CKC build manual and spotted a few modifications that aren’t mentioned. The slide lock has been moved forward and some welding has been done on the cable holder. So I moved the slide lock which solved the passenger seat with some gentle persuasion (a rubber mallet to slightly reshape seat pan) managed to fit the rails. But the driver’s seat needs the cable holders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One side I discovered could be sorted by bending the fixing end of the bracket 180 degrees and fixing it to one of the bolts- just need to apply a little heat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other side bracket is not so easy but with a little help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve never done any welding, but I know a man who can.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is one thing that concerns me the relocated slide lock is now only fixed by one bolt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I plan to make a piece that fastens the second fixing back on to the rail.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxvLvdMwEcKL4wOTyXkI5RUHoFOriiFiS1D5UolWNxC_Biq-JAC9htLgsLAtffgkwpwD9U6QDo5jZaeLt6lOVdixpBQKPYV5XMS7EJ0qkS1IvxvtiXjJ42uYTACBjB7EnjW9p8GVkkcI/s1600/P9060714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxvLvdMwEcKL4wOTyXkI5RUHoFOriiFiS1D5UolWNxC_Biq-JAC9htLgsLAtffgkwpwD9U6QDo5jZaeLt6lOVdixpBQKPYV5XMS7EJ0qkS1IvxvtiXjJ42uYTACBjB7EnjW9p8GVkkcI/s640/P9060714.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Now, at last, my Non-ABS brake master cylinder has arrived so I swapped it out and then look at the connections. I spent a while looking at the best way to configure the pipes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The two stainless flexes for the rear to the balance valve, the two pipes for the front brakes directly to the master cylinder. Then the two pipes from the rear to the balance valve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The balance valve mounts on a bracket taken from the donor Subaru. I tried a number of different ways to get the lot together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now I know the ABS balance valve is different to the original non ABS version but they perform the same function (within tolerance) but the pipe fitting orientation is different. This doesn’t make it impossible just awkward.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">A sweeter solution would be if the rear pipes were banjo fittings and the stainless flexes from the master had straight fittings. The balance valve could then be mounted flush to the steelwork and the connections would...flow easier and no donor bracket required.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The photo below might explain better.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyPHItkA_KpczdQdMXkkVycCv2AssNh7fyTqk75pf98yVaNhko7WMjzyqFsvRzNymSXoXUdbO7_rLs7wLePEOCPnckiCDeMjzi9BaANytfj61_9uprZ5z-4iz1tbOa_6AAqIzI_Hy5Nr4/s1600/P9300743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyPHItkA_KpczdQdMXkkVycCv2AssNh7fyTqk75pf98yVaNhko7WMjzyqFsvRzNymSXoXUdbO7_rLs7wLePEOCPnckiCDeMjzi9BaANytfj61_9uprZ5z-4iz1tbOa_6AAqIzI_Hy5Nr4/s640/P9300743.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">After mounting the balance valve I tried fitting the rear pipes. One went in fine but the second I wasn’t happy both pipe fittings are straight thread but there have a slight bent in the fitting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This makes things easier with the old Non-ABS valve, but in this case the bend presses the pipe on to the steelwork.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only way I was able to correct this was to unfasten the whole pipe length to turn the pipe through 180 degrees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Which was a long job but the P-clips don’t allow the remaining slack to move through them at all so I was going to have to undo them all anyhow. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipip54wQISsbHA1KcjZyCRimkN3yCwBvHjqTyorE82JrBTWWCr356a7nqwNZCMqhkAeohvUleo6GF-sPGstU10Sgnt4vanfENXArdGHA2BV1PEuV0newfntgVuXg6XYyU9aF_FYIMxwU4/s1600/P9300744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipip54wQISsbHA1KcjZyCRimkN3yCwBvHjqTyorE82JrBTWWCr356a7nqwNZCMqhkAeohvUleo6GF-sPGstU10Sgnt4vanfENXArdGHA2BV1PEuV0newfntgVuXg6XYyU9aF_FYIMxwU4/s320/P9300744.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">It took me a while to get everything back in place but eventually it all looked good and I put the rear brake callipers in place and the rear wheels to see how to route the pipes to the callipers. I wasn’t happy for some reason the pipes were too close to the wheels until I realised I’d put the callipers on the wrong wheels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the correct calliper now in place, I thought back to graham’s advice which was to put a P-clip behind the shock and feed it back. But I had an alternative idea which was to fasten the brake pipe to the shock and then transfer to the tub in line with the trailing arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then follow the hand brake cable back to the tunnel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I must confess I’m struggling to see how I will fasten the pipe every eight inches around the diff nose bracket and trailing arm.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">With two wheels on my wagon I thought I’d test the hand brake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled the lever and grabbed the wheel turning it forward I got nothing it wouldn’t budge - so far so good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But turning it backwards I was able to move it. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I suspect the brakes need some bedding in the drum, whilst I had removed the coating of rust that had built up from 12 months on the garage floor had built up it would still need working in – that’ll be fun down the ten foot.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">I can’t get proper access to finish the handbrake cable mountings because the wooden frame the tub is sat on. I suspect something similar for the brake lines around the Diff nose mounting. So I called it a night.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4620906579618751229.post-29599083561332056002011-10-12T12:31:00.001+01:002011-10-12T12:32:06.518+01:00Day 52 Back to it...<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Back to it and after some thought about the passenger door issue. I fitted the door with only the top and bottom fixings on the door and what do you know it fitted spot on. The two middle holes were out each by a couple of millimetres, but nothing a round file wouldn’t be able to fix with a little elbow grease. With a little jiggling the first alignment of the doors was done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Further alignment will be required when the window assembly and door furniture have been fitted.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5fz-iuFuBTGyw5TtWr4Q3GBOWgHdzeyGE5lNWizaYHHOos_8yk6lvuoccI7n4njcay1jJnC8vQLMngtQ6JTzOIZ-Uq_li-rop8m3Qw8EMx9J815sUCKzgUCDSMrKVj52SmF69f9Ao5Q/s1600/P9210741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5fz-iuFuBTGyw5TtWr4Q3GBOWgHdzeyGE5lNWizaYHHOos_8yk6lvuoccI7n4njcay1jJnC8vQLMngtQ6JTzOIZ-Uq_li-rop8m3Qw8EMx9J815sUCKzgUCDSMrKVj52SmF69f9Ao5Q/s640/P9210741.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">Back to the boot lid and another attempt to get the lid aligned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pressed it to the left repeatedly and with a bit of sanding still achieved absolutely nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It always seemed to just spring back to where it started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The grp is flexing and the aluminium isn’t bending. More thinking required... shame no beer left in the house.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Hull Murtayahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04353803688829610907noreply@blogger.com0